All the Insurances you need

2008-03-29T10:52:00.001-07:00

BOAT INSURANCES

2008-03-29T10:37:00.000-07:00

Boat insurance programs are normally designed to cover boats up to 26' in overall length. If the size of your vessel is greater than 26 feet, it's generally considered a "yacht", and therefore qualifies for yacht insurance.

Boat insurance provides physical damage coverage to repair your boat if it's accidentally damaged or destroyed by a covered peril such as collision, fire, theft, windstorm, lightning or vandalism. This coverage is broad, and provides coverage for the boat, including its machinery and auxiliary equipment, outboard motors, boat trailer and personal property.

A Boat Insurance policy can provide physical damage coverage on an Actual Cash Value (ACV) or an Agreed Amount Value basis. Both types of boat insurance policies offer important coverages for your boat but there are significant differences.

Actual Cash Value policies pay for Replacement Costs less depreciation at the time of the loss. In the event of a total loss, used boat pricing guides and other resources are used to determine the approximate market value of your vessel. A partial loss is settled by taking the total coast of the repair less a percentage for depreciation.

Agreed Amount Value policies mean you and the insurance company have agreed on the value of your vessel and in the event of a total loss you will be paid that amount. Agreed Amount Value policies also replace old items for new in the event of a partial loss without any deduction for depreciation. Most Agreed Amount Value policies require actual cash value on certain damaged property such as sails, protective covers, batteries, dinghies, trailers and aged outboard motors, lower drive units or outdrives.

Physical Damage coverage is usually subject to a deductible. The boat and motor usually have the same deductible with additional deductibles for the trailer and personal effects. The deductible is the amount you are willing to pay in case of a loss. The higher the deductible, the lower your insurance premium. Boat policy deductibles are usually calculated as a percentage of your coverage (1%, 2%, 3% of the vessel value) or can be on flat amounts of $250 or $500.

A good boat insurance policy should also offer Personal Effects coverage to provide protection for those items not intended for the normal operation of your boat, such as portable TVs, cellular or portable phones, stereos, radios and cameras.

Boat Liability

The Liability section of the policy provides protection if you are legally responsible for damages to property or injury to someone other than yourself or a family member. Boat Insurance liability provides protection if you are sued as a result of hitting another boat, or if someone is hurt onboard your vessel because of your negligence. This coverage is usually offered in increments of $100,000 up to $1 million.

Medical Payments

The Medical Payments section of the policy provides protection for reasonable medical, ambulance and hospital costs should someone be injured while in, upon, boarding or leaving your boat.

Uninsured Boat Owners Coverage

The Uninsured Boat Owners section of the policy provides coverage for injuries caused by an accident that you are entitled to recover from the owner or operator of an uninsured boat or "hit-and-run" boat.

Commercial Towing and Assistance enables you to be reimbursed for the reasonable costs incurred when you break down at sea and need a commercial tow to port.

These are some of the basic coverages you should look for when purchasing boat insurance. As a market leader in the boat insurance industry, United Marine Underwriters offers broad coverages at great rates for virtually any type of vessel.

SMALL BUSINESS INSURANCES

2008-03-29T10:35:00.000-07:00

Small Business Insurances
It can be difficult to determine which kind of insurance you need for your small business. Different types of insurance have confusingly similar names; your state, town, or county may have its own insurance requirements; and many industries have coverage specific to them.
Insurance is one of the most neglected small business responsibilities. Not having the appropriate insurance for your small business is a mistake because a disaster can shut down your company permanently, or at least wreak havoc on your assets.
The Insurance Information Institute (III) in New York City estimates that about 40 percent of small business owners have no insurance at all, because many falsely believe they can't afford coverage. The truth is a small business can't afford not to have adequate insurance. Without insurance, you're unnecessarily putting your livelihood at risk. That's also why many landlords, suppliers, and other entities you work with will probably require you to have coverage.

If you're having difficulty determining which kind of insurance your business should have, you might want to check with the following agencies:

The county or city clerk

A local chapter of your industry association

The state insurance office

BUSINESS OWNER'S POLICY

A standard business owner's policy (BOP) provides coverage for property (fire, wind, theft, etc.), liability (injury of someone in your business or by your product), business interruption, and, in some cases, workers' compensation. The components of each BOP are different, so be sure that your policy contains all the components your business requires.

BOPs were originally designed for small businesses, often retail, such as stationery or hardware stores. Today, BOPs are available for a broad range of businesses covering most major industries and professions. If your business has more than 50 employees, or very high sales volume, you may not be eligible for a BOP and will have to purchase a package with the same elements at higher limits.

GENERAL LIABILITY INSURANCE

Liability insurance (also known as casualty insurance) refers to coverage for injury to another person or damage to a person's property for which you are legally responsible. General liability is a standard element of most business owner's policies.

General liability insurance will cover your business in case of bodily injury to someone or damage to someone's property that occurs on your premises. For example, this type of insurance would cover you should a client trip over a loose phone cord in your conference room and break an arm. Similarly, if you were to accidentally knock over and break an expensive antique at a client's premises, your general liability policy would reimburse the client for the damaged property

PROTERTY INSURANCE

As the name suggests, property insurance provides coverage to your business for loss or damage (such as fire or vandalism) to your property. Most business owner's policies include property insurance. Business property coverage typically falls into two categories: building and personal property:

Building - This coverage is sometimes referred to as "real" property. It protects you should something happen to your building. Be sure to analyze your policy to see exactly what it includes - these policies typically cover damage caused by fire, lightning, wind, vandalism, or the weight of snow on your roof. Some things such as earthquakes, hurricanes and even general wear and tear are often excluded.

Personal property - This covers a business for loss of, or damage to, the property inside its building, such as files, office furniture, inventory, materials, etc. Check to see if your policy includes your computers and your phone system; your insurer may consider these to be "special" property and require additional coverage

PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE

Professional liability insurance, also commonly referred to as errors & omissions coverage, is the service equivalent to product liability insurance. It protects you financially in the case of a claim against you for negligence, errors, omissions, or wrongful acts in the performance of your duties. It includes coverage for malpractice, errors, and omissions.

Some states and professions require this coverage by law; for example, doctors are required to carry malpractice insurance, which is a form of professional liability coverage. In other cases, companies you do business with will require you to have it. For instance, computer consultants bidding for corporate contracts often must prove they have errors and omissions coverage, since errors in their work can put a corporation's computer system out of commission. It is also a common requirement in government services contracts. Even if you are not mandated to have it, it is wise to carry a policy if the service you provide could inadvertently harm another person. The professions for which it is recommended or required include, but are not limited to, computer technicians, systems analysts, accountants, hairdressers, lawyers, and consultants.

A good place to start your search for professional liability coverage is your trade association, since it will be familiar with the requirements for your profession. Often, these industry groups offer specialized liability coverage, or if they don't, can point you in the direction of a carrier that does. When you are shopping for professional liability insurance, be sure to ask if the coverage includes the cost of legal fees. Some policies are now being written with exclusions and limits on coverage for legal fees and court costs.

PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE

UMBRELLA INSURANCE

These types of policies offer extra liability coverage that kicks in for losses when the limits of your primary liability policy are reached. Umbrella coverage often applies to either business liability or automobile liability insurance. Using an umbrella policy, you can often purchase several hundred thousand to more than a million dollars worth of extra coverage for as little as a few hundred dollars.

BUSINESS INCOME/EXTRA EXPENSE INSURANCE

This is an extremely important add-on to property coverage, and is part of most BOPs. Business income coverage reimburses your business for revenues you lost during downtime caused by damage to or loss of your property. Extra expense insurance reimburses you for expenses incurred to avoid or minimize the suspension of business. Say, for example, your building roof collapses after a heavy thunderstorm. The business income policy pays for the income you lost while you could not occupy the building, while the extra expense policy covers rent for a temporary office space while your building is being repaired.

PRODUCT LIABILITY INSURANCE

Product liability insurance protects you in case a product you produce or provide causes harm to a user or a user's property. A "product" is anything that is tangibly used, touched, or consumed. This type of insurance is recommended for every business that manufactures a product, but is especially important for companies that produce food, clothing, toys or anything else that could conceivably cause harm to someone.

Most business owner's policies include limited product liability coverage. If, for some reason, you do not have this coverage through a business owner's policy and your product runs the risk of inflicting harm on other people, you may need to buy product liability separately. Similarly, if your product presents a higher risk of injury (for example, it contains a hazardous material), you may need to purchase additional coverage.

EXTRA EQUIPMENT INSURANCE

If your computer equipment is not adequately covered by your other insurance, you can buy a rider or separate policy to cover it. Look for insurance that not only covers the physical computer equipment, but also damage to or loss of data. Some companies will write policies that pay for time spent on data restoration. Since some high-tech equipment is also prone to failure due to things like power surges, electrical arcing, or other forces, you may need a policy that covers types of equipment breakdowns that are not part of your regular property policy

SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT INSURANCE

Special coverage may be available for equipment that doesn't fit easily into standard coverage or is used in unusual ways. For example, "off-premises" coverage can be applied to expensive equipment such as professional cameras, computers, analysis gear, or other items that are used by your company away from your premises. They would be covered in case of off-site theft, loss, or destruction.

Other Insurances

2008-03-29T10:29:00.000-07:00

OTHERS INSURANCES

Small Business Insurance

It can be difficult to determine which kind of insurance you need for your small business. Different types of insurance have confusingly similar names.

Boat Insurance

Travel insurance provides international health / medical coverage, should something happen to you abroad.

2008-03-25T19:10:00.000-07:00

This site will help to to learn everything you need to know about insurances and financing.All you need to do is to lay back and browse the categories and tipes of insurances you need....Hope my blog can help you understand the true meaning of insurance and financig..
Best Regards.....Alexandar

YOUR HEALTH AT WORK

2008-03-25T19:04:00.000-07:00

Physical Health at Work
You don't have to work on a building site for your job to affect your health; even the more sedentary occupations can be a risk. RSI, headaches, carpal tunnel syndrome, and back and eye problems can all be avoided if you're aware of the causes and do your best to minimise them.
Are you sitting comfortably?

A properly adjusted chair will reduce the strain that you put on your back. You should be able to alter the height, back position and tilt of your chair. Try and ensure that your knees are level with your hips.

In order to prevent back injury, you should be sitting up straight while at your desk. If your chair isn't providing enough back support, try using a rolled up towel or cushion until you find a position that's comfortable for you - then adjust the chair accordingly.

Now that you've got your chair correctly positioned, take a look at your feet. Are they flat on the floor? If not, you may want to consider getting a footrest. This will relieve any pressure on your joints and muscles. It's important that you avoid crossing your legs or sitting with one (or both) legs twisted beneath you.

Check the position of your monitor

Now that you're sitting comfortably you need to take a look at the positioning of your pc. Guidelines suggest that the monitor should be positioned approximately 12-30 inches away from your eyes.

A good guide to positioning is to place the monitor about an arm's length away. The top of the screen should be roughly at eye level. In order to achieve this position you may need to get a stand for your monitor. This doesn't need to be anything fancy - a pile of books will help to elevate the screen to the required position.

Screen reflection and glare

Ideally your pc screen should be as glare-free as possible. This may mean positioning the monitor so that overhead lighting and sunlight are not reflecting on your screen. Try positioning the monitor so that it is at right-angles to the window.

Experiment with your monitor until you find the best position. You may need to move your desk slightly or close the blinds. If glare continues to be a problem, try using an anti-glare screen. You should also experiment with the screen settings on your monitor. Adjusting the brightness or contrast could make a big difference.
Are key objects are within reach?

Position frequently used objects - such as your telephone or stapler - within reachable distance from your body. It's important to avoid repeatedly stretching or twisting to reach things. Positioning items within easy reach will help to avoid overusing your arm, shoulder and back muscles.

If you spend a lot of time on the telephone, you may want to consider exchanging your handset for a headset. Repeatedly cradling the phone between your ear and shoulder can strain the muscles in your neck.

Sitting at the keyboard

Keep your wrists in a straight position when using a keyboard - they shouldn't be bent up, down or to either side. Your elbows should be positioned vertically under your shoulders. Using a wrist rest may help you to avoid awkward bending in your wrists.

Position and use the mouse as close to you as you can. Aim to have your elbow vertically under your shoulder and right by your side. A mouse mat with a wrist pad will help to keep your wrist straight and avoid awkward bending. Try learning some keyboard short cuts to cut down on the amount of time you spend using a mouse.

Take a break

Try to alter your working day so that you don't spend all your time at your pc. If your job is mainly pc based ensure that you take regular breaks. For every hour at your keyboard, take at least five to ten minutes rest. Rest your eyes - look away from the screen and focus on something in the distance for a few seconds.

Try doing some gentle exercises to help relax the muscles and clear your mind. Download our deskercise screensaver and try the simple exercises that you can do whilst sitting at your desk.

Tips:

If you experience any pain of discomfort at your desk - stop what you're doing and take a break.

If you are regularly experiencing aches and pains at work, discuss them with someone who is in a position to help you resolve them.

If symptoms persist speak to your occupational health department or GP.

Back pain

Back pain is a fairly universal experience. Some see it as an inevitable legacy of our evolution, the result of turning a body designed to hang from a horizontal spine into a vertical spire, where a carefully balanced mechanism of muscles and joints must support organs and tissues pulling the column of vertebral bones downwards.

What happens at work?

Back problems often start at work. Take an office worker who typically spends up to 40 hours a week hunched solid over their desk, nurses who need to frequently lift patients, a taxi driver bent into the driving seat for more than 25,000 miles a year, a farmer constantly lifting sacks, seeds and machinery, or a checkout assistant sat on a poorly designed chair at her till all day (57 per cent experience lower back pain each year).

Our backs may be put under prolonged strain by our jobs and its hardly surprising that something within the delicate balance of bones and muscles so often fails.

What injuries do we suffer?

The result is traumatised, bruised or inflamed muscles (which may go into spasm), damaged ligaments, misalignment of tiny vertebral joints or damage to the discs between the vertebrae.

Sometimes a back problem directly follows an injury but often it appears quite unrelated to any specific event. It can be difficult to establish clearly what damage has been done to the back (back pain is too common to routinely use expensive MRI scans to investigate the problem) but there is no denying the misery of back pain.

Abnormal strains on the back at work are more likely if:

you're generally unfit: this makes all injuries more likely

you're overweight: this puts extra stress on the back

your job involves lifting, bending or moving heavy objects: lifting badly is a common cause of back problems at work

your job involves being seated in one place for long periods of time. An unchanging posture can put prolonged abnormal tension on the back

your work involves frequent use of a telephone without a headset – 31% of office workers who use a telephone for at least two hours a day and also use a computer have lower back pain

there's a high level of stress, anxiety and tension in your job, or at home. This can generally increase muscle tension throughout the body and increase the chances of a sudden sprain

Reducing your risk

There is a lot you can do to reduce the risk to your back from your job. Your employer should help you – they may be legally obliged to provide training and appropriate equipment for you or give you regular breaks. But it is also in their interests to keep their workforce healthy – it's estimated that each year in the UK 180 million working days are lost due to back problems, costing UK business millions of pounds.

One way to tackle the problem is to apply ergonomic principles to adapt the workplace to suit each specific worker, depending on what their job involves and what their physical make up is. Computer ergonomics, for example, will minimize the risk of repetitive injury, neck strain, lower back pain and leg pain.

Should you stop work?

There's been a huge change in thinking in recent years about treating back pain. Bed rest, once widely recommended, is now to be avoided. It may be useful in certain cases for 24-48 hours but it can do more harm than good and most people are much better off carrying on with activities as far as possible, although avoiding anything too strenuous.

The box below suggests what you should do when you first develop back pain. The aim is to avoid it becoming a chronic problem. The sooner you're active, the better you will feel and the less likely that you will need to keep taking painkillers. It may seem like an impossible struggle to get back to work but the longer you are off work the lower your chances of ever returning.

Treating an acute back problem

Take things easy but avoid bed rest if at all possible

If the pain gets worse or you have unusual symptoms such as numbness, pins and needles, problems passing urine or pain down the leg, talk to your GP immediately

Keep as mobile as possible, with gentle exercise (a stroll in the garden, a gentle swim)

Take regular simple pain killers (paracetamol, ibuprofen etc). Use alternating hot and cold packs on your pack for 15 minutes each, several times a day

Consider manipulation or other treatments from a physiotherapist, osteopath or chiropractor

Try to stay working or return to work as soon as possible, even if you still have some pain. If necessary talk to your employer about making temporary changes to your duties to help your recovery

Keeping your back healthy

Improve your general fitness and lose weight if you're overweight. Take regular exercise, especially to keep the muscles around the spine and abdomen strong and toned so that they act like a corset helping support the back while it does its work. Back Care has some suggestions.

Wear comfortable clothes, with shoes that cushion your spine especially if you have to stand for long periods. Avoid high heels.

Think about your working environment – is your desk layout or comfortable for your back, and does your chair support the natural S shape of your spine? Avoid getting locked into one prolonged static position. There's detailed advice to help get your workstation right at www.spine-health.com.

Make sure you have regular breaks. You shouldn't stay seated in one position for too long and should get up and move around for at least 5-10 minutes every hour.

Work on your posture: you might try the Alexander technique, a set of exercises which can be particularly helpful in reducing the risk of back problems.

If your job involves lifting or moving heavy weights, your employer should teach you how to lift safely and provide lifting equipment where appropriate.

TopTips

Learn about your spine and how to look after it

Check your working environment - could it be kinder to your back?

If you develop a back problem, try to get back to work as soon as poss

What is Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI)?

Occupational overuse syndrome, work-related upper limb injury, and isometric contraction myopathy, are all phrases used to describe what is more commonly known as RSI.

Overuse of the muscles of the hands, wrists, arms or shoulders on a repeated, and usually, daily basis, causes injury to these muscles. This results in inflammation that's never really given a chance to recover, since these everyday activities invariably continue.

The computer keyboard and mouse are often blamed for RSI, but shouldn't be charged with sole responsibility. For a start, the body was never designed to sit hunched over a desk. Poorly positioned and organised workstations add to the problem. Let's not forget, the longer someone puts a strain on muscles by sitting incorrectly for far too long without taking a break, the more likely the body is to suffer the consequences.

The change in our home life and activities also contributes. Computers are ever present, and young children and teenagers are at risk of developing RSI by repeated use of computer games, whether they are hand-held or played on the TV or computer.

Tense muscles do not function correctly, which means that someone under stress is also much more likely to suffer muscle damage and subsequent RSI.

Reducing your risk

But RSI is not a new phenomenon. Tennis elbow and golfer's elbow are two common examples of other overuse syndromes. They have been around for a long time and you don't have to play tennis or golf either.

Anyone who overuses their muscles in their arms and hands repeatedly may develop RSI. These can range from workers on factory assembly lines to musicians to dressmakers and cleaners. It's only since office work has become such a prominent part of everyday life that office work has fallen under the spotlight.

Protect yourself

Assess workstation and seating position

Try a foam wrist support

Stretch to warm up and warm down muscles

Take a short break every 20 minutes

Practise relaxation

Identifying RSI

It may be months, even years, before someone starts to experience the discomfort and pain of RSI. This is because it takes time for the repetitive damage to reach a level where it causes problems.

It often starts with a slight ache every now, which people often ignore. As time passes and the damage continues, individuals may experience symptoms while performing the repeated activity, when typing for example.

As the situation becomes more severe, pain may be felt most of the time, even with the slightest movement. One or both upper limbs may be affected. Many people also experience numbness and tingling. Sometimes, this and the pain mean that they find it difficult to hold objects, and often drop them.

Treating RSI

Someone is at risk of suffering with RSI if their job involves performing repetitive movements. This risk is increased if a person spends long periods of time, sitting on an uncomfortable seat or at a poorly arranged workstation without taking a break.

Prevention is always better than cure, which is why it's important to ask your employer to assess and make sure your workstation and seating position are correct. It's amazing how a simple adaptation, such as using a foam support to rest the wrists on when typing, can make all the difference.

These movements are similar to giving the muscles a workout. This means that just like with any exercise or sport, they need warming up beforehand, and to go through a warm down period afterwards.

Try not to sit for longer than 20 minutes without taking a short break to stretch and relax. Stress makes matters worse, so relaxation techniques or yoga can be a good help. Gentle stretching exercises are all that's needed.

Heat or cold packs; the natural anti-inflammatory arnica, which comes as a capsule or cream form; painkillers such as paracetamol; and anti-inflammatory medicines, such as ibuprofen that comes in tablets, gels, and creams; can all relieve pain and discomfort. They are available from the pharmacist, as are elastic wrist support bandages that help too.

When the situation deteriorates, stronger medicines may be needed from the doctor, who may also recommend acupuncture or firm wrist splints to help relieve the pain. Physiotherapy, osteopathy, or the Alexander technique, are also good for pain relief, and also encourage good posture.

Possible treatments

Heat or cold packs

Arnica

Painkillers

Anti-inflammatory medicines

Elastic wrist supports

Acupuncture

Firm wrist splints

Physiotherapy

Osteopathy

Alexander technique

What is Carpal Tunnel?

In the wrist, there's a tunnel formed by the strong tissue through which the tendons of the hand and the median nerve pass. It's a tight squeeze, so anything that reduces the space in the tunnel, such as fluid or inflammation of the tendon coatings, exerts pressure on this nerve.

When the nerve is compressed, people suffer discomfort, numbness, pins and needles, and sometimes, pain in the thumb, index, middle, and side of the ring finger, next to the middle finger.

This is where the median nerve endings are distributed. Tingling often wakes sufferers up at night; when vigorously shaking the hands and arms is what brings relief. Men will also describe dropping things, or being clumsy with simple, but fiddly tasks, such as fitting a plug, for example.

Reducing your risk

Prevention is better than a cure, so avoidance of repetitive actions, and taking regular breaks from the activity is essential. If at a computer keyboard, use a suitable wrist support, and make sure the workstation is correctly positioned. Also, check the chair is at the right height.

Anti-inflammatory medicines will relieve the symptoms, and often, experts will recommend the use of wrist splints. If this isn't improving the situation, then steroid injections, or a minor operation to release the nerve compression, is performed.
Headaches at work

Headaches are such a common problem that it's not surprising they often occur while people are at work. But there may be specific environmental reasons why some people suffer on the job.

The scale of the problem

Headaches can be hugely disruptive. More than 18 million working days are lost each year because of migraines, for example. This particularly debilitating type of headache can cause intense symptoms lasting up to three days and which are often so severe that concentration and co-ordination becomes difficult and it is simply impossible to carry on working.

In severe cases, headaches can interfere with promotion and career prospects. Employers may worry the person simply isn't up to the stresses of the job while people who experience frequent headaches fear that they're letting their colleagues down by insisting on regular breaks or other conditions to avoid triggering a headache.

What triggers headaches at work?

All types of headaches, especially tension or stress-related headaches and migraine, are common in the workplace, probably because many similar trigger factors may be involved (see box below). In some types of headache, especially migraine, several trigger factors may add up until a threshold is passed and a headache results.

Triggers of a headache at work

Stress, worry, tension, anxiety etc about workload, deadlines, demands of job (or worrying about family at home)

Disputes with colleagues or clients

Uncomfortable working environment - heat, noise, dry or smoky atmosphere, poor lighting or uncomfortable desk/seating putting tension on spine and neck

Prolonged use of VDU or computer (headaches are a feature of computer vision syndrome)

Persisting at one task for hours or not taking a frequent break

Not having had a proper breakfast, or missing lunch

Not having had a good night's rest (this may be important in people doing shift work)

Alcohol (a drink at lunchtime or a party the night before)

Eye problems

Most people hardly give a thought to the amazing work our eyes do to enable us to see, until things start to go wrong. It's often at work (or school) that people begin to realise they have a problem.

Why do we get eye strain?

That doesn't mean that work is harmful to your eyes (although it can be) but that work or school is where we most need to see well.

One in three working people have visual defects that have never even been diagnosed

We may be stressed, tired, trying to read tiny print or study tiny diagrams, and using our brains to think out problems fast, relying on all our senses. And so often these days, work also means sitting staring at a computer screen or VDU which puts extra demands on our eyes.

Regular eye checks

So looking after your eyes at work is vital. But many people don't even have regular sight tests. It's estimated that as many as one in three working people have visual defects (such as short or long sightedness) which have never even been diagnosed or have not been properly corrected. These problems may come to light when you do visually demanding work.

Make sure you have your eyes tested at least once a year or more often if you have symptoms. You may be able to demand that your employer provides regular eye tests especially if you work at a VDU.

Symptoms suggesting eye problems are:

Problems seeing or reading

Blurred vision

Headaches

Dizziness

Pain in the eyes

Watery or dry eyes

Eye strain

Even if your eyes are healthy, your job can put extra strain on your eyes or cause other eye-health problems. Eye strain means a sensation of tired eyes, which may be accompanied by increasing difficulty focussing or seeing, dryness, headache and general discomfort.

Working at a computer screen or VDU greatly increases the risk of eye strain and may lead to computer vision syndrome.

Tips to reduce eye strain

Make sure that the environment that you work in is eye-friendly:

Arrange your desk so that you are a comfortable distance from the screen with a good posture and hand control at the keyboard. Your eyes should be about level with the top of the screen

Work from documents at an equal distance to your eyes as the screen so that you don't have to keep readjusting your focus. Use a vertical document holder attached to the side of your screen if it helps

Adjust the monitor controls until the brightness of the screen feels comfortable

Select a style and size of font (typeface) for your work which is most comfortable for your eyes to read - small fonts can actually causes rises in blood pressure and stress levels

Make sure the contrast between light from the monitor and the room behind it is not too great, so that your eyes don't continually have to adjust between the two. Don't, for example, place your screen in front of a window or a very dark wall

Light the screen from above or behind you with a table lamp. It's generally recommended that the background lighting level is about 300-500 lux

Cover the monitor with an anti-glare device

Control levels of humidity in the air (dry air attracts dust and irritates the eyes) by placing vases of flowers or damp plants, or misting the air (but not too near the computer!)

Take frequent short breaks (5-10 min per hour) allowing your eyes to refocus on something distant

While working swap frequently to tasks that don't involve the keyboard

Risks of long-term harm

Some studies suggest that working at a VDU may increase health risks. For example, there may be:

An increased risk of seizure in those with photosensitive epilepsy

An increased risk of developing cataracts

Worsening of short-sightedness and less specific deterioration of eyesight

However, the majority of the research doesn't show any permanent health effects so it is likely that if there are health risks from a VDU, the risks are very small.In some jobs there are clear risks to the eyes from injury by particles or chemicals in the environment. If you work, for example, at machinery or where chemicals are released into the environment (for example, in mining, petroleum & oil refineries, chemical manufacturing & handling or laboratories).

Check with your health and safety officer about protecting your eyes. You can find out how much you know by taking a workplace eye safety quiz. Follow Prevent Blindness America's 10 top tips to prevent injury.

Always wear safety goggles when these are recommended, or face shields. Goggles form a seal around the eyes and stop objects, shards or particles getting into the eye. If ventilation holes are partially covered, goggles will also stop chemicals from splashing into the eye. Prescription glasses are not a substitute for safety glasses unless they meet the appropriate safety standards, usually shown on the frames with a safety eye wear logo. Contact lenses offer no protection

Always work with machine guards in place and following rules about working with chemicals

Know where the eye-bath station is in your workplace and what should be done is someone has an eye injury or contamination. In some places there are specially designed eye-wash sinks. Alternatively there should be portable squeezy bottles containing eyewashes. Its important to wash the eyes for a prolonged period, at least 15 minutes when there has been contact with caustic chemicals

First aid for eyes

First assess the situation quickly and get someone to close down all risks such as machinery, or move others from a contaminated area.

Cuts to the eye

Don't wash the eye or try to remove anything stuck in the eye
Shield the eye with a plastic cup
Get urgent medical advice

Dirt or tiny particles in the eye:

Use an eye bath to wash the eye copiously and flush out the particles
Don't rub the eye
Get medical advice if pain or particles persist

Chemical contamination

Flush the eye with an eye bath solution (or water if eye solution is not to hand) for at least 15 minutes and at least until you have had medical advice about the particular chemical
Get urgent medical advice

Trauma to the eye:

Gently apply a cold pack to the area around the eye but don't put pressure on the eye itself
Get urgent medical advice, especially if there is pain, visual problems or blood or pus in the eye

Insomnia and shift work

Sick building syndrome (SBS) describes a situation whereby people experience symptoms of ill health that seem to be linked to spending time in a building - but where no specific cause can be identified.

What are the symptoms?

Some of the symptoms associated with SBS include: headaches, eye, nose or throat irritation, skin irritation, coughs, dizziness, nausea and fatigue. The symptoms rapidly improve after leaving the building.

Although the cause is unknown, there are several common theories surrounding the syndrome. These include: What can be done?

The predominant culprit in most buildings is thought to be the flow of air. If this can be improved then SBS symptoms may disappear. Specific pollutants should be identified and then removed or altered to minimize the effect.

If you suspect your place of work is making you ill try and keep a diary of your symptoms. Do you feel better when you leave the building? Are there any changes you can make to your work environment? These might include:

DISABILITY INCOME PLAN

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Could you continue to pay your bills if you were unable to work for any length of time because of illness or injury? If you were to become disabled, do you know how much money would be coming in each month and from what sources?

Some people can rely on disability benefits from their employers and/or the government. But, for a great many people, income stops when work stops. Individual disability income insurance is designed to replace income when illness or injury stands in the way of earning a living.

This booklet explains the various sources of disability income, what disability income insurance is, and what it covers. It includes a work sheet you can use to evaluate personal sources of disability income, as well as a checklist of policy features you can use to compare disability income insurance policies. With this information, you'll be able to make an informed decision about whether you need individual disability income insurance and, if so, what features are most important to you.
What Is Disability Insurance?

Disability income insurance provides you with an income should you become sick or injured and unable to work. It helps protect against family financial catastrophe by giving you an income to meet daily expenses.

Disability income insurance comes in two major forms:

A variety of employer-paid and government sponsored programs, generally cost-free to the recipient, covering certain categories of workers.

Private policies (paid for by individuals) that protect income when there are no applicable employer or government programs or when those programs do not adequately meet income needs.

As with all insurance, disability income insurance operates on the principle that many people pool small sums of money to benefit those who need help. The beneficiaries are people who need adequate income should they become disabled.
What About Social Security Disability Benefits?

Most salaried workers in the United States participate in the federal government's Social Security program. Social Security is best known for its retirement benefits. But the Social Security Administration also administers disability benefits. In 1992, 2.4 billion dollars in Social Security disability payments were sent to 4.8 million Americans.

Your salary and the number of years you have been covered under Social Security determine how much you can receive. In 1992, the average monthly payment for a disabled worker was $642; the average monthly payment for a family consisting of a disabled worker, spouse, and one or more children was $1093.

Here are some important points to remember:

Eligibility is based on being unable to perform any gainful employment, not just the job you were performing at the time the disability began.

You are eligible for benefits after you have been disabled for 5 months and if the disability is expected to last 12 months. Claim processing may take up to 3 months, so file as soon as possible.

Social Security payments may be reduced by disability entitlements under other government programs. Why? Because total combined payments under Social Security, workers' compensation, civil service, and military programs generally cannot exceed 80 percent of average predisability earnings. A government pension also may reduce Social Security disability payments.

After 24 months of benefits, recipients qualify for Medicare. If you want the medical insurance portion of Medicare, in addition to hospital coverage, you must enroll and pay a monthly premium.

Social Security disability payments are subject to federal income tax if your adjusted gross income plus any nontaxable interest income and half of you Social Security benefits exceed a total of $25,000 (if you file tax returns individually) or $32,000 (if you file jointly). For taxable years 1994 on, up to 85 percent of Social Security disability payments are subject to federal income tax if the total--as calculated above--exceeds $34,000 (individually) or $44,000 (jointly).

Social Security disability payments can be an important part of you income should you suffer a disabling illness or injury. Contact your local Social Security office for an estimate of the disability benefits to which you would be entitled.

Are You Eligible For Other Disability Income?

There are many other potential sources of income if you become disabled:

Workers' compensation benefits, if you suffer an accident at work or an illness that results from your employment.

Veterans Administration pension disability benefits, for eligible veterans.

Civil service disability pay, for federal or state government workers.

Black lung program for miners.

State vocational rehabilitation programs.

Group union disability coverage.

Automobile insurance, if disability results from an auto accident.

Private insurance, such as credit disability insurance, that makes monthly loan payments when you are disabled.

Supplemental Security Income (SSI) for persons with low income and limited assets.

Medicaid, also for persons with low income and limited assets.

The availability and extent of these and other programs vary widely in different locations. But, because one or more may be an important source of income should you become disabled, it's important to determine whether you are eligible. If you are, you should also find out how long benefits will be paid. And, of course, your own resources--the savings you've put aside over the years--are another valuable source of income.
How Much Disability Income Will You Need?

Add up all the benefits you are entitled to under the public and private programs mentioned, along with the monthly income you could count on from other sources such as your savings. If the total approaches your required income after taxes, you can assume that, should total disability strike, you would be able to pay your day-to-day bills while recuperating. You must remember that eligibility for Social Security disability benefits are contingent upon your disability being expected to last for at least 12 months. If the total from employer benefits, Social Security, and other programs along with your own resources will not be close to your pre-disability, after-tax income and will not be adequate to support your family, you will want to consider buying additional disability insurance to make up the difference.

The amount of long-term disability you may receive through your employer's group plan or your personal insurance benefits may be reduced by the amount of Social Security or other government benefits that may be paid.

A special note for employers

If you are your own employer, consider a group policy for you and your employees. If you are a sole practitioner, or if you work for a business that does not provide benefits under a group policy, an individual policy is a good idea. After all, if you do not receive benefits, your entire business may suffer.

An agent can be helpful
Whether you are an employee or an employer, your insurance agent can help analyze your sources of disability income, determine waiting periods for various benefits, and determine whether additional coverage would be wise.

What Should You Look For In A Disability Policy?

If you find that you need an individual disability policy over and above any other income protection you may have, here's what you need to know:

Definition of disability
Policies vary. Some pay benefits if you are unable to perform the duties of your customary occupation, others only if you can engage in no gainful employment at all. Be sure to ask your insurance agent how various policies define disability.

Extent of disability
Some older policies require that you be totally disabled before payments begin. Partial disability sometimes is covered for a limited time but most often only if the partial disability follows a period of total disability for the same cause. Some policies may not require total disability before partial disability payment.

"Residual" benefits
If you are able to work but your income is reduced because you cannot fulfill all of your job responsibilities, residual benefits can help to make up the difference in your income. A standard feature in some policies (added with a rider to others), a residual benefit allows partial payment based on your loss of income without prior total disability.

Presumptive disability
Even if you can still perform some or all of your regular job, you are presumed fully disabled and are entitled to full benefits under specified conditions. Those conditions typically include loss of sight, speech, hearing, or use of limbs.

Size of benefits
Monthly benefits are calculated in terms of stable, earned income at the time of purchase. Most insurers, not wanting to provide benefits so sizable that they would encourage workers to remain at home, limit benefits from all sources to no more than 70 to 80 percent of monthly income. Lower-paid workers can expect to receive more of their predisability incomes while higher-paid workers generally receive less.

When the payments begin
Today's policies allow you to decide when benefit payments begin. You can choose a waiting period at the time of application; these range anywhere from the 31st day to six months or more after the onset of the disability. Depending on how much money you have saved, and your other resources, you can reduce your premiums by electing to wait 60 days, 90 days, or even six months before you start to receive benefit payments. Remember, though, that the first check is usually not paid until 30 days after the waiting period.

Length of coverage
By choosing a benefit term, you will elect benefits that are payable for one year, two years, five years, to age 65, or for a lifetime. Since disability benefits are designed to replace earned income, most people do not need benefits extending beyond the working years. Electing shorter benefit periods can save premium dollars, but bear in mind that if you need this insurance at all, you probably need it most to cover a disability that permanently removes you from the work force. A lengthy disability threatens your financial security much more than a short term disability.

Keeping pace with inflation
For an additional premium, you can add a cost-of-living adjustment (COLA) to basic disability income coverage. This provision increases benefit payouts by a specified percentage, generally 4 to 10 percent, after each year of disability and can be important particularly during a lengthy period of total disability. While this is a relatively expensive option, it could be vital to maintaining your standard of living.

Most policies include a waiver of premium provision, so that you don't have to pay any more premiums after you're disabled for 90 days. Some policies offer the opportunity to buy additional disability coverage to keep pace with a rising income, without having to pass a medical examination or to submit further medical evidence of insurability.

What Kind Of Business Protection Is Available In The Event Of Disability?

Income replacement insurance is particularly important if you own a small business. In addition to standard disability policies, some polices have such special features as:

Recovery benefits that pay after you return to work full time, during the period in which you are reestablishing a customer or client base.

Overhead expense coverage that pays for certain office expenses, over and above the disability benefits that replace personal income.

For jointly owned businesses, a disability buy-out policy disburses funds for one partner, or the business entity, to buy a disabled partner's share of the business.

Key-person insurance, which protects a firm against the loss of income resulting from the disability of a key employee.

What Insurance Do You Need?

Many people who thoughtfully protect their families against the loss of income from a breadwinner's death fail to think about what would happen if that breadwinner were unable to earn a living because of a disability. In fact, long-term disability may worsen a family's financial situation more than a wage earner's death because income stops, but expenses continue.

Consider Bob and Ann Jackson. Bob and Ann, who live in a Midwestern city, are parents of a 6-year-old girl. Bob, 31, earns $32,000 selling computers. His monthly take-home pay is $1,994. After staying home several years to care for their daughter, Ann is now a part-time saleswoman in a local boutique. She brings home $338 a month.

Life is uneventful for the Jacksons, until Bob becomes so ill that he can no longer work. Suddenly there is a dramatic reduction inn the Jacksons' income. Because they live in a rental apartment, they have no mortgage disability insurance to cover basic housing costs. Bob isn't eligible for Social Security disability. (To be eligible, Bob would have to demonstrate that he is unable to engage in any gainful work that exists in the national economy, regardless of whether such a job exists in the area in which he and Ann live.) Bob has no prior military or civil service that might qualify him for other government disability programs. He does not qualify for workers' compensation benefits because his illness is not job-related.

The specifics of what happens next depend greatly on whether or not Bob's employer offers group disability benefits, whether these benefits are short term (STD) or long-term (LTD), whether the policy includes a cost-of-living adjustment, and how the group policy defines disability.

If Bob's employer does provide Group LTD, Bob would be entitled to benefits under his employer's policy--probably 60 percent of his gross salary, or $1,600 a month. Of this amount, he would have to pay $193 in federal income taxes and $100 in state income taxes. To continue his family's group medical policy, he will have to pay the portion of his health insurance premium that was previously paid by his employer. Under this scenario, the Jacksons' monthly income (including Ann's current salary) would be almost 30 percent less than their former income. Will this be adequate or not? The Jacksons may save money with Bob staying at home (he is no longer commuting to work, for example), and Ann may adjust to the situation by becoming the principal wage earner. Thus, the employer-provided group disability policy may well be enough.

However, not all employers provide disability benefits. What if Bob is employed by a small firm that has no group disability benefits at all? Or what if the Jackson's situation is such that they need more than they would get under the group policy? Under such circumstances, an individual disability income insurance policy might be just the right answer.
How Do You Find Out If You Have Enough Protection?

First, find out exactly what benefits your employer offers in the event of a disabling illness or injury. Most employers allow some short-term sick leave, which might last from a few days to as much as six months, depending both on employer policy and on duration of employment. In some states (for example, Hawaii, New Jersey, New York, and Rhode Island), state law requires most employers to provide disability benefits for up to 26 weeks. In California, most employers must provide coverage for up to 52 weeks.

No laws require employers to offer long-term disability (LTD) insurance but it is estimated that almost half of mid-size to large employers provide long-term benefits for at least five years. Typical group long-term disability benefits replace about 60 percent of salary, start when short-term benefits are exhausted, and continue anywhere from five years to life. Often, group long-term insurance is fully paid for by employers without contributions by employees. (That's why employer-paid disability income benefits are subject to income tax.)

Check with your employer's benefits office to see if you are covered and, if so, what is available to you. Find out how long you must wait before benefits begin and how long payments will continue during your disability. Find out, too, whether your employer's plan takes other disability coverage (such as government programs) into account when calculating your long-term disability pay. Ask for a booklet describing the disability coverage your company offers.

CHOOSING A HEALTH PLAN

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Health care in America is changing rapidly. Twenty–five years ago, most people in the United States had indemnity insurance coverage. A person with indemnity insurance could go to any doctor, hospital, or other provider (which would bill for each service given), and the insurance and the patient would each pay part of the bill.
What Are My Health Plan Choices?

Choosing between health plans is not as easy as it once was. Although there is no one "best" plan, there are some plans that will be better than others for you and your family's health needs. Plans differ, both in how much you have to pay and how easy it is to get the services you need. Although no plan will pay for all the costs associated with your medical care, some plans will cover more than others. Almost all plans today have ways to reduce unnecessary use of health care–and keep down the costs of health care, too. This may affect how easily you get the care you want, but should not affect how easily you get the care you need.

Plans change from year to year, so you should carefully consider each plan, using the questions outlined in this booklet. If you get health insurance where you work, you should start with your employee benefits office. Its staff should be able to tell you what is covered under the plans available. You can also call plans directly to ask questions.

Health insurance plans are usually described as either indemnity (fee–for–service) or managed care. These types of plans differ in important ways that are described below. With any health plan, however, there is a basic premium, which is how much you or your employer pay, usually monthly, to buy health insurance coverage. In addition, there are often other payments you must make, which will vary by plan. In considering any plan, you should try to figure out its total cost to you and your family, especially if someone in the family has a chronic or serious health condition.

Indemnity and managed care plans differ in their basic approach. Put broadly, the major differences concern choice of providers, out–of–pocket costs for covered services, and how bills are paid. Usually, indemnity plans offer more choice of doctors (including specialists, such as cardiologists and surgeons), hospitals, and other health care providers than managed care plans. Indemnity plans pay their share of the costs of a service only after they receive a bill.

Managed care plans have agreements with certain doctors, hospitals, and health care providers to give a range of services to plan members at reduced cost. In general, you will have less paperwork and lower out–of–pocket costs if you select a managed care type plan and a broader choice of health care providers if you select an indemnity–type plan.

Over time, the distinctions between these kinds of plans have begun to blur as health plans compete for your business. Some indemnity plans offer managed care–type options, and some managed care plans offer members the opportunity to use providers who are "outside" the plan. This makes it even more important for you to understand how your health plan works.

Besides indemnity plans, there are basically three types of managed care plans: PPOs, HMOs, and POS plans.
Where Do I Get These Health Plans?

Group Policies

You may be able to get group health coverage–either indemnity or managed care–through your job or the job of a family member.

Many employers allow you to join or change health plans once a year during open enrollment. But once you choose a plan, you must keep it for a year. Discuss choices and limits with your employee benefits office.

Individual Policies

If you are self–employed or if your company does not offer group policies, you may need to buy individual health insurance. Individual policies cost more than group policies.

Some organizations–such as unions, professional associations, or social or civic groups–offer health plans for members. You may want to talk to an insurance broker, who can tell you more about the indemnity and managed care plans that are available for individuals. Some States also provide insurance for very small groups or the self–employed.

Medicare

Americans age 65 or older and people with certain disabilities can be covered under Medicare, a Federal health insurance program.

In many parts of the country, people covered under Medicare now have a choice between managed care and indemnity plans. They also can switch their plans for any reason. However, they must officially tell the plan or the local Social Security Office, and the change may not take effect for up to 30 days. Call your local Social Security office or the State office on aging to find out what is available in your area.

Medicaid

Medicaid covers some low–income people (especially children and pregnant women), and disabled people. Medicaid is a joint Federal–State health insurance program that is run by the States.

In some cases, States require people covered under Medicaid to join managed care plans. Insurance plans and State regulations differ, so check with your State Medicaid office to learn more.

Pre–Existing Conditions

A pre–existing condition is a medical condition diagnosed or treated before joining a new plan. In the past, health care given for a pre–existing condition often has not been covered for someone who joins a new plan until after a waiting period. However, a new law–called the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act–changes the rules.

Under the law, most of which goes into effect on July 1, 1997, a pre–existing condition will be covered without a waiting period when you join a new group plan if you have been insured the previous 12 months. This means that if you remain insured for 12 months or more, you will be able to go from one job to another, and your pre–existing condition will be covered–without additional waiting periods–even if you have a chronic illness.

If you have a pre–existing condition and have not been insured the previous 12 months before joining a new plan, the longest you will have to wait before you are covered for that condition is 12 months.

To find out how this new law affects you, check with either your employer benefits office or your health plan.

What Plan Benefits Are Offered?

Most plans provide basic medical coverage, but the details are what counts. The best plan for someone else may not be the best plan for you. For each plan you are considering, find out how it handles:

Physical exams and health screenings.

Care by specialists.

Hospitalization and emergency care.

Prescription drugs.

Vision care.

Dental services.

Also ask about:

Care and counseling for mental health.

Services for drug and alcohol abuse.

Obstetrical-gynecological care and family planning services.

Ongoing care for chronic (long-term) diseases, conditions, or disabilities.

Physical therapy and other rehabilitative care.

Home health, nursing home, and hospice care.

Chiropractic or alternative health care, such as acupuncture.

Experimental treatments.

Some plans offer members health education and preventive care, but services differ. Ask questions such as:

What preventive care is offered, such as shots for children?

What health screenings are given, such as breast exams and Pap smears for women?

Does the plan help people who want to quit smoking?

What Is Most Important to Me in a Plan?

In choosing a plan, you have to decide what is most important to you. All plans have tradeoffs. Ask yourself these questions:

How comprehensive do I want coverage of health care services to be?

How do I feel about limits on my choice of doctors or hospitals?

How do I feel about a primary care doctor referring me to specialists for additional care?

How convenient does my care need to be?

How important is the cost of services?

How much am I willing to spend on premiums and other health care costs?

How do I feel about keeping receipts and filing claims?

You might also want to think about whether the services a plan offers meet your needs. Call the plan for details about coverage if you have questions. Consider:

Life changes you may be thinking about, such as starting a family or retiring.

Chronic health conditions or disabilities that you or family members have.

If you or anyone in your family will need care for the elderly.

Care for family members who travel a lot, attend college, or spend time at two homes.

How Do I Compare Health Plans?

After you review what benefits are available and decide what is important to you, you can compare plans. Many things should be considered. These include services offered, choice of providers, location, and costs. The quality of care is also a factor to think about.

Services

Look at the services offered by each plan. What services are limited or not covered? Is there a good match between what is provided and what you think you will need? For example, if you have a chronic disease, is there a special program for that illness? Will the plan provide the medicines and equipment you may need?

Find out what types of care or services the plan won't pay for. These usually are called exclusions.

Few indemnity and managed care plans cover treatments that are experimental. Ask how the plan decides what is or is not experimental. Find out what you can do if you disagree with a plan's decision on medical care or coverage.

Choice

What doctors, hospitals, and other medical providers are part of the plan? Are there enough of the kinds of doctors you want to see? Do you need to choose a primary care doctor? If you want to see a specialist, can you refer yourself or must your primary care doctor refer you? Do you need approval from the plan before going into the hospital or getting specialty care?

Location

Where will you go for care? Are these places near where you work or live? How does the plan handle care when you are away from home?

Costs

No health insurance plan will cover every expense. To get a true idea of what your costs will be under each plan, you need to look at how much you will pay for your premium and other costs.

Are there deductibles you must pay before the insurance begins to help cover your costs?

After you have met your deductible, what part of your costs are paid by the plan?

Does this amount vary by the type of service, doctor, or health facility used?

Are there copayments you must pay for certain services, such as doctor visits?

If you use doctors outside a plan's network, how much more will you pay to get care?

If a plan does not cover certain services or care that you think you will need, how much will you have to pay?

Are there any limits to how much you must pay in case of major illness?

Is there a limit on how much the plan will pay for your care in a year or over a lifetime? A single hospital stay for a serious condition could cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.

You can't know in advance what your health care needs for the coming year will be. But you can guess what services you and your family might need. Figure out what the total costs to your family would be for these services under each plan

But today, more than half of all Americans who have health insurance are enrolled in some kind of managed care plan, an organized way of both providing services and paying for them. Different types of managed care plans work differently and include preferred provider organizations (PPOs), health maintenance organizations (HMOs), and point–of–service (POS) plans.

You've probably heard these terms before. But what do they mean, and what are the differences between them? And what do these differences mean to you?
How Do I Find Out About Quality?

Quality is hard to measure, but more and more information is becoming available. There are certain things you can look for and questions you can ask. Whatever kind of plan you are considering, you can check out individual doctors and hospitals.

Many managed care plans are regulated by Federal and State agencies. Indemnity plans are regulated by State insurance commissions. Your State Department of Health or insurance commission can tell you about any plan you are interested in.

You can also find out if the managed care plan you are interested in has been "accredited," meaning that it meets certain standards of independent organizations. Some States require accreditation if plans serve special groups, such as people in Medicaid. Some employers will only contract with plans that are accredited.

Several national organizations review and accredit plans and institutions. You can contact these organizations to see if a plan you are considering, or an institution in the plan, is accredited.

Another approach is to ask the plan how it ensures good medical care. Does the plan review the qualifications of doctors before they are added to the plan? Plans are supposed to review the care that is given by their doctors and hospitals. How does the plan review its own services, and has it made changes to correct problems? How does the plan resolve member complaints?

Some managed care plans survey members about their health care experiences. Ask the plan for a report of the survey results.

Some plans and independent organizations are also beginning to produce "report cards." These reports often include satisfaction survey results and other information on quality, such as if a plan provides preventive care (for example, shots for children and Pap smears for women) or if the plan follows up on test results. Report cards may also include information on how many members stay in or leave the plan, how many of the plan's doctors are board certified, or how long you may have to wait for an appointment.

Report cards can only give you an idea of how a plan works and may not give a full picture of a plan's quality. Ask plans if their activities have been reported in report cards developed by outside groups (business or consumer organizations).

Also keep any eye out for magazine articles that rate health plans.

Finally, you can talk to current members of the plan. Ask how they feel about their experiences, such as waiting times for appointments, the helpfulness of medical staff, the services offered, and the care received. If there are programs for your particular condition, how are the patients in it doing?

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RETIREMENT PLANNING

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Retirement Planning
Deciding how much money you need for retirement is a highly personal calculation. It depends on any number of factors, from your current lifestyle to your general state of health to whether you plan to retire early. That's why we've designed this set of five interactive worksheets to let you tailor your estimate to your own circumstances. Be forewarned: These worksheets will take some time to complete. But when you're done, you'll have a dependable estimate of

How much annual retirement income you'll need.

How much you can count on from your pension and Social Security benefits.

What your total nest egg must be, and

How much you need to put away this year to begin to reach that goal.

Seven Savings Strategies
Need help getting started saving for retirement or other goals?

Don’t splurge with your tax refund. About 40 million American taxpayers receive a federal tax refund, with the average around $2,400. The temptation is everywhere -- witness the instant loans being advertised by tax preparers -- to grab the money now and spend it. Instead, take it as an opportunity to use it wisely -- to save it or pay down debt.

Take full advantage of your employer’s retirement contributions. Many of us work for companies that offer a free match to our contributions -- in most cases about 50 cents to every dollar we put in, up to a certain percentage. This is free money. That’s worth repeating. It’s free money. It’s a good idea to take it.

Start small and stay steady. The most important word there is "start" -- as young as you can, with whatever you can. Simply starting a savings plan enables time to work for you rather than against you. Many of our customers’ success stories began their first chapters just by turning spending into saving -- setting aside the coins that used to buy that daily jelly doughnut.

Pay yourself first. Few among us have the sustained determination to month-in, month-out choose the important over the urgent. That’s why the best plans start with "taking money off the table" -- that is, automatically depositing funds into our savings accounts right from our paychecks, before we can touch it.

Create separate pots of savings for upcoming life-stages. For all the people who jeopardize their retirement by focusing only on the next big financial challenge, there are more who put too much emphasis on retirement at the expense of other needs that require just as much preparation, if not more. Don’t forget to set aside savings for other big expenses, like buying a home, paying for college, unexpected emergencies, your daughter’s wedding, etc.

Find the right education plan, for those with children. There are lots of different savings options and college savings plans differ, depending on which state you live in. None of them are "one size fits all." You need to determine what makes sense for you and your situation. Which brings us to the seventh, final, and in our view most important point…

...Work with someone you know and trust. Successful savings plans can’t be mass-produced, and they can’t be put on autopilot. Financial issues are complicated and risky -- It pays to work with a professional who knows what they’re talking about, and who also knows you and will stay with you over the long haul and through the ups and downs of your household.

What is a Rollover?
A rollover occurs when you move your money from a qualified retirement plan, such as an employer-sponsored 401(k) plan, into a Traditional IRA or another qualified retirement plan. Typically, you are eligible for a rollover only under the following circumstances:

Retiring. You’ve been saving for years and years...and now it’s finally time to enjoy your hard-earned savings. Many people find that consolidating their retirement assets into a Traditional IRA makes it easier to manage and monitor their money.

Changing jobs. When people change jobs, they often have money in a qualified retirement plan sponsored by their employer. A rollover lets them move this money into a Traditional IRA of their own choosing.

Between jobs or switching careers. Perhaps you’re taking advantage of opportunities to explore a new profession. Or maybe you’re simply spending time away from the work force to raise a family or go back to school. Whatever your situation, you may wish to simplify your finances by transferring the money from a previous employer’s plan to a Traditional IRA.

Why should you consider a Rollover?

Compare your options

Expand your investment selection. The wide range of choices for a Traditional IRA, for example, provides investment flexibility to diversify your financial approach.

Adapt to new circumstances. A rollover is one way to adjust your investment mix to reflect changes in your investment goals, time frame, or performance expectations. And there is no limit to the amount of money that may be rolled into a qualified retirement account.

Stay open to future possibilities. With a rollover, you may retain the option of moving your money into a future employer’s qualified retirement plan.

One provider for multiple financial solutions. A rollover lets you consolidate your savings with your agent, so you can continue working with someone who’s already familiar with your needs.

Consolidate and manage your retirement assets. The more accounts you have, the more difficult it is to keep track of your money. Consolidating your assets into a single traditional IRA can make it simpler to track balances and monitor your withdrawals.

Potential Tax Benefits

No current income tax. With a rollover, you don't have to immediately pay federal income tax on the amount you've rolled over.

No tax on earnings. Your money can potentially grow tax-deferred until you begin to make withdrawals from your account. No tax withholding. You'll avoid the 20% federal withholding for federal income taxes, so the entire balance of your account continues to work for you.*

No penalty tax. Your rollover isn't considered a taxable distribution, so it doesn't trigger the 10% penalty tax for early withdrawals made prior to age 59 1/2.

Estate planning
Concepts included on this site dealing with federal estate tax issues may not be the most acceptable or best solutions to your situation. You should consult your attorney for advice on your particular situation.

On June 7, 2001, the Economic Growth and Tax Relief Reconciliation Act was signed by President Bush, bringing many changes over the next decade. Effective January 1, 2002, federal estate taxes will be steadily reduced and eventually abolished in 2010. Without further congressional action, however, the law as it existed in 2001 comes back into effect for 2011 and thereafter.

Estate Planning involves developing a "plan" that will accomplish the goals and objectives of an estate owner while living and at death. These goals and objectives could include:

Providing cash payment of estate expenses including federal estate tax.

Providing income to family members after the estate owner's death.

Providing for the disposition of a business at death.

Distributing assets to family members and other heirs with the least amount of shrinkage possible.

It is an ongoing process that involves the creation, conservation, and distribution of property. The "plan" could be as simple as having a will or could require the use of life insurance, trusts, business continuation plans, or charitable arrangements.

The components of an individual retirement plan
You will have three potential income sources in retirement.

Social Security

Employer-sponsored retirement plans

Personal savings

Which of these sources of income will you count on during your retirement?

How much money you will have at retirement is determined by how much you save, how long you save it and the rate of return you receive.

It's a good idea to start thinking now about where your retirement income might come from. Knowing where you are will help you plan accordingly for a comfortable retirement. Contact your financial representative to help you develop your personal retirement plan.
Finding solutions for your retirement gap
To get a more accurate idea of what your gap in retirement funds may be, talk with your financial representative as soon as possible. They will help you:

Verify your actual Social Security benefits from the Social Security Administration.

Estimate what your present retirement funding vehicles will be worth at retirement, assuming various rates of interest.

Develop a computerized retirement analysis, employing inflation factors and other sophisticated calculations to help forecast your estimated retirement income needs.

Set up a plan designed to achieve your retirement goals within your current means.

Update your retirement plan annually to reflect any changes in your objectives or present situation.

Remember: The quality of your retirement tomorrow will depend on the quality of your planning today.

ANNUITY GUIDE

2008-03-25T06:20:00.000-07:00

Annuity Guide
An annuity is a contract where the person who pays for the annuity (the annuitant) will receive a set amount every year for a certain period. Despite the name annuity, the payments may be made monthly and the cost of the annuity will depend on the likely length of time for which it will be paid.

Most annuities are bought for a lump sum, i.e. single premium, and start immediately – known therefore as immediate annuities. Regular premium annuities are also available.

Annuities are normally expressed in terms of annual amounts payable, though in practice, they can be payable monthly, quarterly, half-yearly or annually. An annuity can be paid in advance or arrears, for example, where an annuity is effected on 1st January 2003, the first annual payment is due on the same date if it is paid in advance, or on 1st January 2004 if it is paid in arrears.

All types of annuity have in common the fact that they provide certainty of income over a given period. They are not usually savings schemes and it is possible that the amounts recovered will be less than the cost of the annuity. This is particularly true for a purchased life annuity. In return for the premium (single or regular), annual payments are made for the duration of the annuitant’s life, however long or short that might be. There are also annuities where the amounts paid depend on the growth of the sum invested, which might be used to buy units.

Where an annuity is payable in arrears, it can either be with proportion or without proportion. This is because each payment is made at the end of the period to which it relates. Thus, when the annuitant dies, there will be a period since the last instalment date for which no payment has been made. Under a with proportion annuity, a proportionate payment will be made to cover this period. This is not the case for a without proportion annuity, where no payment is made.
Temporary Annuity
Some annuities can be bought where the income is paid only for a fixed term, eg. For 5 or 10 years. These are most often used in conjunction with Single Premium Bonds and Endowment/ Unit Linked Savings Plans.

Most temporary annuities are designed to be payable for either a fixed period, or the annuitant’s lifetime, whichever is shorter. If the annuitant survives the fixed period, the annuity ceases, as it does if he dies during that period.
Purchased life annuity
Also known as an immediate annuity, this type of contract provides, in return for a single premium, an annual payment starting immediately and continuing for the rest of the annuitant’s life.

Annuities can be on a single life or joint lives, most usually husband and wife. These policies are particularly popular for retired people who want a guaranteed income for as long as they live. They may be bought with the tax free cash available from a personal pension on retirement.

Where an annuity is being used to provide retirement income for a married couple, it would not be advisable to have a single life annuity, because if the annuitant died first, payments would cease and the surviving spouse would be left with nothing. This has led to joint life last survivor annuities. These contracts pay an annuity for the joint lifetimes of the two annuitants. Payments usually continue in full after the first death, but sometimes reduce by a set amount, say a third.
Deferred annuity
It is possible to establish a purchased life annuity to start paying out at a future date, this being known as a deferred annuity.

The period between the date of the contract and the date the annuity is to commence (often called the vesting date or the maturity date) is the deferred period. Regular sums would be put aside to fund the annuity, often during the deferred period.

If death occurs before the scheduled date for the start of the policy, the premiums are usually repaid, with or without interest. The annuity becomes payable once the vesting date is reached and will continue for the rest of the annuitant’s life.
Certain annuity
An annuity certain is a contract to pay an annuity for a specified period regardless of whether the annuitant survives. It does not depend on the age of the annuitant, as payment is guaranteed for the set period whatever happens.
Guaranteed annuity
For a slightly higher cost than a certain annuity, a guaranteed annuity can be bought. This pays an annuity (to the estate) for a minimum period even if the annuitant dies during that period. If the annuitant lives longer the payments continue.

Thus an annuity guaranteed for ten years will be payable for life or ten years, whichever is the longer. If the annuitant dies during the guaranteed period, then the balance of the guaranteed instalments will be payable to his estate, though a continued cash sum may be payable instead.
Capital protected annuity
For a slightly higher cost than a certain annuity, a guaranteed annuity can be bought. This pays an annuity (to the estate) for a minimum period even if the annuitant dies during that period. If the annuitant lives longer the payments continue.

Thus an annuity guaranteed for ten years will be payable for life or ten years, whichever is the longer. If the annuitant dies during the guaranteed period, then the balance of the guaranteed instalments will be payable to his estate, though a continued cash sum may be payable instead.
Increasing or escalating annuity
Some offices offer increasing annuities, where the instalments increase by a fixed percentage each year. This can help to offset the effects of inflation, although the rate of inflation may well be higher than the fixed rate of increase. You should also remember that a level annuity will be much higher for the same premium than the initial level of an increasing annuity.

A few offices have annuities linked to the Retail Price Index. Unit-linked annuities are also available and three offices have an annuity linked to their with-profits funds. All these types of annuity give a lower initial payment than a fixed annuity, but better protection against future inflation.
Impaired life annuity
In the past, annuities were almost always written at standard rates that did not vary according to the policyholders’ state of health. In a growing number of cases, a person in poor health may be given an enhanced return by certain insurance companies. These are called ‘impaired life annuities’.
Tax treatment of annuities
There is no tax relief for the cost of the annuity. Each receipt from a life annuity is treated partly as a return of the amount paid for it (the capital element) and partly as interest (the income element). Any capital element is tax free but the income element is liable to income tax in full and is usually paid after deduction of basic rate income tax, which can be reclaimed by non taxpayers.

All you need to know about insurances

2008-03-24T09:25:00.000-07:00

1.Home Insurance
2.Car Insurance
3.Travel Insurance
4.Health Insurance
5.Life Insurance

Safety on a Road

2008-03-24T08:31:00.000-07:00

» Child Passenger Safety
Do's

Do restrain your child appropriately for his or her age, weight and height.

Do follow directions that come with the child safety seat, as well as the child passenger restraint directions in your vehicle’s owner’s manual.

Don'ts

Don’t put your child in the front seat. Children 12 and under should sit in the back seat appropriately restrained.

Don’t place a child in front of an active airbag because they are made to protect adults, not children. Children 12 and under should ride in the back seat, away from air bags.

Infants: Birth until at least 20 pounds AND at least 1 year old Use rear-facing infant seat or rear-facing convertible seat.

Route harness straps in lower slots, at or below shoulder level.

Fasten the top of the harness clip at armpit level.

Never place a rear-facing infant in the front seat with an active airbag.

Keep harness straps snug.

Install child passenger restraint at no greater than a 45-degree angle.

Toddlers: Over 20 pounds AND over 1 year old; Up to 40 pounds
(Once rear-facing infant seat or rear-facing convertible seat is outgrown)

Use forward-facing car seat.

Route harness straps in designated reinforced slots, at or above shoulder level.

Fasten harness clip at armpit level.

Keep harness straps snug.

Young Children: Over 40 pounds; Up to at least age 8, unless 4’9”
(Once forward-facing car seat is outgrown)

Belt positioning booster seat with a lap and shoulder seat belt.

Place shoulder strap over the shoulder and snug across the chest.

Place lap belt low and tight on hips, NOT over stomach.

Make sure shoulder strap is never across the neck, face or arm.

Older Children: Over age 8 or 4'9"
(Once belt-positioning booster seat is outgrown)

Use a lap and shoulder seat belt.

Shoulder belt fits over the shoulder and across the chest.

Lap belt should fit low and tight on hips, NOT over stomach.

Shoulder belt should NEVER be placed under arms or behind back.

Here there is a website we hope will answer some of your child safety seat questions.

> National Highway Traffic Safety Administration

FACT: Motor vehicle crashes remain the leading cause of death for children between the ages of 2 to 14 years in the United States. In 2002, 227,000 children were injured and 1,543 children were killed in car crashes. (Source: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration)

"As a Level One Pediatric Trauma Center, The Children's Hospital of Philadelphia sees tragedies resulting from motor vehicle crashes too often, an average of 250 trauma admissions each year. The Partners for Child Passenger Safety (PCPS) study is a scientific and systematic approach to turning this epidemic around," says Steven M. Altschuler, M.D., President and CEO of The Children's Hospital of Philadelphia.

The research conducted by PCPS seeks to determine how and why children are being killed or injured in motor vehicle crashes. The data collected and analyzed by PCPS researchers has direct implications for automotive and restraint design, public policy and parent education.

PCPS is a research collaboration of the largest auto insurer, State Farm Mutual Automobile Insurance Company, and the nation's first children's hospital, The Children's Hospital of Philadelphia. Since 1997, PCPS has created a database containing information on more than 223,000 crashes involving 336,000 children. It has become the largest source of data on children involved on motor vehicles crashes.

PCPS is the first academic-corporate partnership devoted to the safety of children in motor vehicles. The program's methodology is unique, combining in-depth telephone interviews, on-site crash investigations and computer crash simulations with interdisciplinary analysis and interpretation.

Findings from the study are published regularly in leading medical and engineering journals and presented at scientific conferences. The PCPS team conducts consistent outreach to the automotive and restraint community, policy makers and legislators, public health educators, and the media to improve safety for child occupants.

» Driver Behavior
Drinking and driving -- A deadly combination

Every 33 minutes, someone will die in an alcohol-related traffic accident. Although you probably think that it could never happen to you, experts say everyone has a 30-percent lifetime chance of being in a crash involving alcohol use.

According to Gallup surveys for Mothers Against Drunk Driving (MADD), drunken driving is our No. 1 highway safety problem. Through education, increased law enforcement and stiffer penalties, the number of alcohol-related traffic accidents can be reduced.

What you can do to protect yourself and others The social drinker
If you drink, be responsible. When with a group, choose a designated driver. Having one person agree to drink only non-alcoholic beverages and provide transportation for other members of the group can save lives.

The good host
Here some things you can do as a host to ensure responsible drinking at a social function:

Provide plenty of non-alcoholic beverages.

Do not pressure guests to drink.

Serve food to slow the rate of absorption of alcohol.

Stop the flow of liquor at least one hour before the party is over.

If guests drink too much, call a cab or arrange a ride with a sober driver.

The encounter with the drunken driver
When you drive, you want to protect yourself and others you love. So, be alert and watch out for impaired drivers.

According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, drivers under the influence of alcohol often display certain characteristics when on the road:

Making wide turns.

Weaving, swerving, drifting or straddling the center line.

Almost striking an object or vehicle.

Driving on the wrong side of the road.

Driving at a very slow speed.

Stopping without cause.

Braking erratically.

Responding slowly to traffic signals.

Turning abruptly or illegally.

Driving after dark with headlights off.

If you are in front of the drunken driver, turn right at the nearest intersection and let him or her pass. If the driver is in front of you, stay a safe distance behind. And if the driver is coming at you, slow down, move to the right and stop.

Stricter laws can help too
Because education and public awareness alone cannot stop drunken driving, stricter laws and enforcement are needed if there is to be significant progress in the ongoing battle against drunken driving.

Lowering the legal blood alcohol content (BAC) level from .10 to .08 percent in all states could go a long way toward reducing drunken driving. According to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, a person's driving ability is already impaired at a mere .02 BAC. A person with a BAC level in the .05-.09 range is nine times more likely to have a crash than a person at zero BAC. Only 28 states and the District of Columbia have this tough standard.

In the continuing fight against drunken driving, the message is clear. If you drink, don't drive. If you're serving alcohol at a party, think safety. After all, while drinking may be considered fun, it isn't fun if you or someone you know gets hurt or dies.

What does the public say about drunken driving?
In Gallup surveys for MADD, public attitudes toward drunken driving were measured.

The studies revealed that: Two in five people personally know someone killed or injured by a drunk driver.

Three in five people know someone who has been convicted of drunken driving.

People are less likely to drink and drive because they fear injuring or killing other people and themselves.

Fear of jail is another reason why people are less likely to drive while under the influence of alcohol.

Nearly two-thirds of those surveyed said they or their friends use a designated driver when they know they're going to be out drinking.

More than 50 percent said the penalty for first-offense drunken driving isn't severe enough.

More than 70 percent favor random police sobriety checkpoints.

Cell phone use may dial up crashes

A new study, released in February 1997 by the New England Journal of Medicine, might have you putting some distance between yourself and drivers busy talking on their cell phones. University of Toronto researchers discovered:

Cell phone users were four to five times more likely to have crashes than non-users.

Cell phone units that allow the hands to be free offer no safety advantage over hand-held units.

The main factor in most motor vehicle collisions is driver inattentiveness.

According to the Cellular Telecommunications Industry Association (CTIA), there are 100 million wireless subscribers today, which is more than 36 percent of the United States population. While convenient, using cell phones while driving can be hazardous. The American Automobile Association offers these tips:

Make sure your phone is mounted where you can easily reach it while driving. The phone should be within comfortable reach in your usual driving position and as close as possible to your line of vision.

Know all the operations of your cellular phone, and learn to use it without looking.

Keep your attention on the road by programming frequently called numbers into the phone's memory to minimize dialing.

Dial sensibly. Wait for a stop light, pull off the road to dial, or ask a passenger to dial for you.

Don't use your cellular phone in distracting traffic situations. Pull off the road to make a call.

Be careful about where you stop to make calls.

When calling 911 to report an emergency, be prepared to provide the closest major cross streets or off-ramps, and know your cellular phone number.

Use your voice mail to take calls or leave yourself messages. Never take notes while driving.

Disconnect your cellular phone when using jumper cables; the power surge could burn out your phone.

A few states actually regulate cell phone use, including California, Florida, Massachusetts, Oklahoma and Minnesota. Oklahoma and Minnesota require police to include cell phone information in accident reports. Several countries prohibit cell phone use while driving including England, Switzerland, Spain, Australia and Italy.

Police suggest calling 911 from your cellular phone only in true emergencies:

Emergencies Unreported collisions

Any life-threatening event

Any crime against you or another person

A vehicle or object blocking traffic lanes

A suspected drunk driver

Non-emergencies (Do not use 911)

A stalled vehicle off the roadway

A broken-down vehicle that is not a hazard

Winter road conditions

A stolen vehicle when nothing is known about the suspected thief

Asking for directions

Testing your phone

When you dial 911, the call from your cellular phone is routed to the appropriate emergency response authority.

You must be prepared to provide:

Exact location of vehicle in distress

Nature of emergency

Your name and cellular number, including area code

Aggressive Driving: Asking for Trouble

An 86-year-old Washington, D.C., resident was hit by a car traveling 90 mph on a city street.

Are You an Aggressive Driver?

Safety and Preventive Measures

Aggressive Driving Facts

Aggressive drivers are becoming more visible, according to a Media and Injury Prevention Program at the University of Southern California. "Aggressive driving is now the most common way of driving," says co-director Sandra Ball-Rokeach. "It's not just a few crazies -- it's a subculture of driving."A recent study by the Automobile Association of America (AAA) revealed that 44 percent of drivers in Washington, DC, worry more about aggressive drivers than about drunken drivers. Stories of aggressive drivers chasing, punching or shooting their victims are common. But you might avoid becoming a victim if you know how to remain calm and avoid acting upon your feelings. Sure, people cut you off, honk their horns or pass you on the right, but reacting angrily only makes matters worse. Results can be deadly.
Aggressive driving facts

Aggressive driving: asking for trouble

The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) says, about 66 percent of all traffic fatalities annually are caused by aggressive driving behaviors, such as passing on the right, running red lights and tailgating.

At least 20 percent of adults have hostility levels serious enough to be a health hazard. (Source: USA TODAY)

Aggressive driving incidents are defined as events in which an angry or impatient driver tries to kill or injure another driver after a traffic dispute. (Source: U.S. News & World Report)

Aggressive driving incidents have risen by 51 percent since 1990. And 37 percent of these incidents involved firearms. (Source: U.S. News & World Report)

The number of drivers on the road is increasing. As of 1990, 91 percent of people drove to work.

Commuters in one-third of the largest cities spent well over 40 hours a year in traffic jams. (Source: U.S. News & World Report)

Aggressive driving may be on the upswing, so remember not to panic and avoid confrontations when possible.

BUYING A CAR

2008-03-24T08:21:00.001-07:00

Buying a new or used car can be a nightmare...or a reasonably pleasant experience, based to a large degree on the level of your preparation and the extent of your information. We will arm you with the information and the preparation that you need to achieve your best deal when buying a car!

9 Things to do when buying a Car
1. QUALIFY YOURSELF:
Want to save yourself a lot of time and aggravation? Before you begin to look for a vehicle, spend the time necessary to review your budget. Determine a target and maximum payment, and match it to the price of a vehicle that will fall within these ranges. In addition, find out how that payment fits into the qualification structure of the lending institution. In the majority of cases, your total debt load--including the new car payment--should be no more than 40% of your total gross income.

2. DETERMINE YOUR NEEDS
Before you go out on the search for the "perfect vehicle," take time to determine exactly what your NEEDS and WANTS are, and most importantly, be sure to distinguish between the two. Many consumers mistake one for the other and end up purchasing a vehicle that is totally wrong for them. Don't put yourself into a financial box because you bought more vehicle than you truly need. The "new car smell" fades quickly but the monthly payments go on and on and on....

3. DO BACKGROUND WORK ON THE VEHICL
Once you have a general idea of the type of vehicle that will suit you, spend the time to do the background work that will disclose advantages and disadvantages. With over 1000 different models available, you will need to eliminate many very quickly. The information needed for this process is readily available and easy to access.

4. INVESTIGATE FINANCING OPTIONS
Just as there are a number of different models of vehicles available for you, there are a number of different ways to handle the financing of the vehicle. Familiarize yourself with the workings of both conventional financing and leasing. Learn how these options work and the advantages and disadvantages of each. Check your credit to make sure that your report is accurate. Compare financing rates before you visit the dealership.

5. CHOOSE THE RIGHT DEALER
There are a number of factors which will determine the ideal dealership for a particular model, including location, service reputation, and price. A mistake here could mean a number of years of frustration and aggravation.

6. DRIVE THE CAR
It is amazing the number of people who will purchase a vehicle without ever having driven it. This is where you begin to make the comparisons not only among competing vehicles but also among competing dealerships. Take the time necessary for proper evaluation of both.

7. FIND OUT ABOUT C.S.I.
A Customer Service Index (C.S.I.) is maintained by each car maker for the dealerships that sell their vehicles. This information is an absolute necessity in the selection of a dealership, since it is the ranking of how an individual dealer satisfies its customers both in sales and service.

8. DO BACKGROUND WORK ON THE PRICE
Becoming educated on the pricing structure of vehicle, including all of the components that make up the dealer cost, is the most important factor in guaranteeing a good price. Get the most current information, including customer rebates and dealer incentives.

9. BE AWARE OF THE TOTAL COST OF THE VEHICLE
The price of the car is only the beginning. Your total cost will be determined by what you pay for the car plus financing, warranties, insurance as well as repairs and maintenance. Investigate, compare and make certain to get the best deal you can on each! Consider the advantages of volume purchasing power. AutoVantage Gold is a full service auto club that may be able to save you money over the term of your ownership. They'll even give you a 3 month trial membership for only $1 and throw in 4 free oil changes ($100 value) as a bonus

One of the most common questions we receive goes something along the lines of "How can I guarantee myself that I am getting the very best price on a car?" There are no guarantees--the car business is far too variable for that--but there are a few "moves" you can make which will give you the upper hand when it comes time to get prices on the car you want to buy.

Be knowledgeable. Don't ever let a car salesperson be your primary source of knowledge--not on vehicles, and definitely not on pricing (or financing). Do research and make comparisons before you go to a car dealership. It's tough to win when your "trainer" is your adversary in negotiations!

Be realistic. If your interest is in a vehicle with a $22,000 list price and a $20,200 invoice price for example, you are not going to be able to buy it for $17,000 unless there is a rather unlikely $3000 rebate on the vehicle. Realism goes hand in hand with the knowledge you gather and allows you to be much better prepared when you enter the showroom.

Be flexible. Getting hooked on a specific vehicle--right down to the color and specific options--can be very expensive. Don't let an insistence on the "Moonglow Diamond Metallic" paint color cost you money. Dealers can often make additional concessions on vehicles that they have in stock as opposed to those they need to secure elsewhere.

Use online resources to get bona-fide quotes. Does getting a quote give you a firm point of reference? Absolutely. Instead of a hazy idea of what you may be able to buy a particular model for, you've got a specific price and a reference, in relation to the invoice cost, of the dealer's profit level. You may find that the quoted price fits within your financial parameters. If not, you can modify your choice to better fit.

Keep your eyes open for rebates and incentives. All consumer rebates and all factory-to-dealer incentives have specific start and end dates--be aware of them so you don't get caught arriving at the dealership 1 week after a $1000 rebate has expired!

Beware of "smoke and mirrors" Car salespeople are experts of distracting your attention from your gameplan. They will try to get you to focus on vehicle colors and options, leasing, sports scores, restaurants or anything they can think of to try to get your attention off of the price. Listen politely but don't be thrown off. Your goal must be simple: to get the best price (including the financing)--on the best vehicle for your needs--from the best dealer for your situation. Anything else becomes unnecessary fluff!

Watch out for the "extra costs" that can add up. You can make an excellent deal on the basic pricing of the car and still pay too much if you overpay for financing, insurance, warranties and repairs and maintenance, all of which can drive up the total cost of ownership

I have been told that the way to get the best price when buying a car is to go to a number of different dealers and ask for their "best price," then compare the results. Is this the right tactic?
Probably this is the worst tactic you can use. Salespeople hear "I want your best price" many times every single day. They do not take it seriously, and know exactly how to combat it. This is why car buyers who use this method end up frustrated and confused before they ever make a buying decision. There are better ways (and much less aggravating ways) to achieve the same purpose, allowing you to get the right car at the right price, from a dealership that is right for your needs.

Should I use one of these "Car Buying Services" I hear so much about?
It depends. The car buying services that are available at no cost to the consumer are funded by the auto dealerships to whom you will be referred. They consider it to be another avenue of advertising for customers. These services, can, however, be a time and money saver if you are sure of the make and model that you want to buy. There are numerous Car Buying sources available, and we have investigated them all.

What is this "C.S.I." that I read so much about?
C.S.I. is a catch-all phrase for Customer Satisfaction Index, which is known by different terms by the various auto manufacturers. This is the ranking by which the manufacturers keep track of the level of customer satisfaction maintained by each dealership that sells their vehicles. Knowing the C.S.I. ranking of each dealership that you are considering is an extremely important facet of your purchase decision.

I'd rather not have to deal with a dealership. Can't I buy a car direct from the manufacturer?
No. Franchise laws nationwide make it illegal for the manufacturer to sell directly to customers. All car sales must be processed through a franchised new vehicle dealer. A new option, thugh, is to buy the car completely online.

Should I finance with the dealer?
The single advantage to financing with the dealer is convenience. There could, however, be many financial disadvantages. Before you ever commit to dealer financing, check all of the alternatives.

Do all car dealerships pay the same amount for their vehicles or is there a "volume discount?"
The invoice price (the amount that a dealer pays the factory for a vehicle) is the same for all dealerships, large or small. There is no difference in this price whether a dealer buys 1 vehicle or 100 vehicles. There is, however, another aspect to this equation. Many of the automobile manufacturers offer dealerships a bonus based on their level of customer satisfaction. (See the previous question). Therefore, there could be a price differential between dealers who offer high degree of customer satisfaction and dealers who have low scores. This is another reason why the knowledge of a dealership's C.S.I. is important information to have at your disposal.

What are the most important things that I can do to ease the aggravation of a buying a car?
Two words sum up the best approach to the car buying process: Information and Preparation. Before you go shopping for a car, take the time to gather as much information as possible about vehicles you are interested in and the actual car buying process. Then, use this information to prepare yourself to be on an even level with the salespeople and dealers you will encounter.

What if I have questions while I am in the middle of the car buying process?
Until recently, you would be pretty much on your own. We've found a great resource, though in the AutoVantage Gold program. Although it is a great opportunity to join a national auto club (24-hour roadside assistance and towing, trip routing and planning and discounts on rental cars and hotels), AutoVantage Gold has a special member benefit--a toll-free hotline--where you can have your car buying questions answered by an expert. You can even call from the dealership! You can even get a 3 month trial membership for only $1 and receive 4 free oil changes ($100 value) in the process!

If I buy a car and then change my mind, what is the law regarding returning it?
The law on returning a vehicle after you have taken delivery is fairly specific -- there is none. Somehow many car buyers have gotten the idea that there is a "3 day right to cancel" period if you change your mind. You don't! This is just one of the many reasons why your preparation is crucially important.

Review your financial situation to determine what you can comfortably afford in your car purchase. Check your credit to make certain that no problems or mistakes exist. Determine a maximum payment or purchase price and etch it in stone--dealers and salespeople will be doing their best to bump you off it!

Spend some time doing research on the various models of vehicles available. Make comparisons based on what you need rather than simply what you want. Your budget will be grateful!

Eliminate any models that do not suit your needs before you begin your car shopping excursions. Don't waste time on vehicles that won't "work" in your situation.

When you have it narrowed to a few models, ask friends, co-workers or relatives who own them about their experiences with the cars they own. Consult automotive publications for road tests and service histories (this will help you to eliminate the "duds").

Do your financial comparisons first. Talk to your bank or credit union and get their terms and rates.

Develop a gameplan to make most efficient use of your time (and money). You'll find lots of information on this web site.

Getting a price quote may help to simplify the process for you. You may even be able to handle the entire transaction--from ordering to delivery--online.

Watch the cost of your total ownership experience--including insurance, warranties and repairs and maintenance. Maximize your savings here or run the risk of losing what you saved on the purchase!

Take your time. Don't rush to buy the first vehicle you see. Take a deep breath and consult your comparisons and your gameplan. If necessary, visit different dealerships to compare prices and service.

When everything is right--the car, the dealership, and the price, relax and buy the car. If you have done your preparation, there is no need to agonize needlessly. Begin to enjoy the car!

Not doing their homework
Forcing themselves to get their "product knowledge and comparisons" from automobile salespeople. They are bad teachers!!

Neglecting to test drive the model they want to buy
Always, always, always drive the vehicle. Don't take anyone else's word for how it handles. This includes friends, family, and car salespeople!

Leasing a vehicle because its the "modern" thing to do
Leasing may or may not be the right avenue for you. Investigate all your options before you commit.

Spending too much time "price comparing" and not enough "model comparing"
a great price on a bad vehicle does not make a good deal.

Assuming that the dealer will get them a good deal on the financing
This is one of the biggest pitfalls when buying a car (and a very expensive one).

Buying the wrong model because it is the right color
Sounds simple, but a lot of people will focus so strongly on color that they miss the vehicle that is under that fancy paint!

Not preparing their current vehicle
whether it be for trade-in or to resell on their own. No one wants to buy a dirty car or truck, whether it be a dealership or a private individual.

Buying add ons and accessories from the dealer
most of which is added to boost the profit of the vehicle. You generally can do this on your own much more economically and get better quality.

Not having enough information at their disposal
believing that past experience is enough ammunition in today's market. This can be one of the worst mistakes a car buyer can make. The automotive market is constantly changing and the prepared buyer is the successful one (and the one with more money in their pocket!) There are links to numerous sources of additional information on this Web Site...take advantage of them.

Giving up the savings they made on the purchase when it comes to the ownership of the car
to avoid this, Getting control of these costs can only enhance your long term savings.

CAR INSURANCE GUIDE

2008-03-24T07:54:00.001-07:00

Back in the late 1890's when the first U.S. automobile insurance policy was purchased, there were barely 100 cars on the streets, nationwide. Horses and carriages traveled the roads, and the main concern then for both insurers and auto drivers was any injury those noisy new machines might do to horses.

Today a motor vehicle accident occurs every second. Auto accidents cause an injury every 14 seconds, and every 13 minutes a car accident results in a fatality. More than 31 million accidents occur per year, at an annual cost of almost $100 billion. Theft and vandalism are other major perils facing drivers, In fact, every 20 seconds another vehicle is stolen.

With more than 150 million drivers and 160 million registered vehicles on the road today, auto insurance is the most widely purchased of all property-liability insurance. Drivers buy auto insurance for economic protection against theft, vandalism, and other risks, but few are familiar with the ins and outs of their particular policy.

This guide was designed by the Independent Insurance Agents of America to make it easier for you to know your insurance needs and the many options available to you. Though this guide does not represent the provisions of any particular policy, it should serve as a starting point on your road to finding the best policy for your needs.
Why do I need car insurance?
Your car has two unique qualities. First, it is probably one of the most expensive things you own. Insurance protects your investment and guarantees you a way of coping with the expense of accidents, vandalism or theft, as well as securing your financial responsibility to the bank or other institution lending the money to buy your vehicle.

Second, when you drive, you are operating a powerful machine, weighing one ton or more and capable of moving at over 100 miles per hour. You are responsible for the safety of your passengers, your fellow drivers, other people's property, pedestrians and yourself. Insurance helps you live up to that responsibility by ensuring your ability to cover the costs of potential damages or injuries.

You are also required to be financially responsible by state laws, which are best satisfied through your insurance coverage. In fact, in most states insurance is a prerequisite to registering your car. So if you want to drive your own vehicle, you must be insured.
What are the different types of policies & what cover?
Auto insurance is divided into several different types of coverage:

General liability covers damage you may cause to other people's property and injuries to the people themselves.

Collision covers damage to your own vehicle in an accident.

Comprehensive (i.e., fire, theft and other non-collision damage) covers fire damage to your vehicle, break-ins, vandalism or theft, as well as natural disasters (earthquake, hail, hurricane, flood, etc.--unless the vehicle is overturned, then it is considered a collision).

Medical payments insurance, usually in the range of $5,000 to $10,000, covers medical expenses for injuries. This "good-faith" coverage guarantees immediate medical payments for you, your passengers and other parties, regardless of who is at fault. It also covers you and members of your household in any accident involving an automobile, whether you are on foot, on a bicycle, in a friend's car, etc.

Uninsured motorist (UM) and underinsured motorist (UIM) coverage protects you if you are injured in an accident with others who themselves carry insufficient or no liability insurance.

Extra coverages include expenses for towing, labor, temporary replacement vehicles, etc. These are generally defined as add-ons or endorsements to your policy.

Why and how are policies priced for different drivers?
Drivers are grouped according to the level of risk each one poses--i.e., the amount of loss incurred by insurers within various categories of policy holders. For various reasons, drivers are categorized by:

Sex--Men have more accidents on the road than women.

Age--Drivers under 25 (and, for some insurers, under 30) are considered at higher risk of having an accident.

Marital Status--Married drivers tend to have fewer accidents than single drivers.

Personal Driving Record--Years of driving experience, accidents, speeding tickets and drunk-driving offenses are all factors in determining how much of a risk you pose as a motorist.

How You Use Your Vehicle--If you commute by car during rush hours, you're at greater risk of having an accident than if you only drive for errands and recreation on the weekends. Drivers who use their own vehicles for business also are considered to be at greater risk.

Type of Vehicle--The value, size, weight, age of your vehicle--even the cost of replacement parts--are essential to determining the price of your insurance. Larger, heavier vehicles are considered at lower risk than smaller, lighter ones. Plus, more expensive cars are costlier to have repaired than economy models.

The cost of your insurance policy is based on the average cost of covering actual losses, spread out over your particular "rating group" as a whole. Of course, you may never have an accident or have your car stolen, and therefore will never need to be compensated. But others in your category may not be so lucky. Your premium will help to pay for their losses, just as their premiums would help to pay for yours. In other words, you are investing a little today in case you need a lot tomorrow; your investment is pooled with others, and the pool pays for your loss.

For example, if you are a 23-year-old man and you park your new sports car on a downtown street in a large city, you will likely pay more for insurance than a 37-year-old woman who parks her four-wheel-drive in the suburbs, simply because--based on average losses--you have a greater chance of having an accident or being the victim of auto theft.
How does where I live affect my premium?
Where you live (or, more precisely, where you keep your car) has a bearing on your chances of having an accident or becoming a victim of theft or vandalism. That's why a vehicle owner in Brooklyn, New York, pays a higher rate than the owner of an identical vehicle in Dallas, Texas.

Other factors affecting regional insurance rates include time and efficiency of police response and law enforcement, local road and traffic conditions and the quality of local medical services. Insurers even factor in the litigation rates in a given area--that is, how many lawsuits are filed, go to trial, are settled out of court and for how much.
What is 'no-fault' insurance?
No-fault insurance is a system adopted in some states that essentially bypasses the conventional legal procedure which finds fault in an accident. (This is the procedure by which you hire a lawyer, file suit and possibly go to court to prove the accident was the other guy's fault.) No-fault simply does away with the concept of one party or the other being at fault--no lawyers, no court, no judge, no jury, no lengthy lawsuits against the other party. This is considered beneficial to taxpayers, because it eliminates costly legal proceedings that the state must manage, and to insurance policyholders, because it helps keep rates down.

If you are insured in a no-fault state and have an accident, you don't go after the other driver. You contact your own insurer and file a claim. Your own insurance policy guarantees you immediate compensation for damages, medical expenses, lost wages, etc.

The type and range of no-fault coverage varies from state to state. What defines the limitations of no-fault policies can differ in two critical areas:

Threshold--The type of damage/injury or the cost of repair/recovery that triggers the need for legal action.

Mandated--Benefit Level--The package of benefits (medical, wage loss, replacement services and other expenses) your state requires you to carry.

The details of no-fault insurance can be complicated. Contact your agent or state's insurance department for further information.
Do all states require some kind of liability insurance?
No. Some states, while not mandating auto insurance, have "financial responsibility laws" that require all drivers to be able to pay for any damage or injury they may cause. However, carrying liability insurance is still the best way for you to meet your state's financial responsibility requirements.

UM and UIM policies are offered by law in all states, including no-fault states. In fact, some states require all motorists to carry this coverage in order to gain protection from inadequate insurance coverage of other drivers.
Why would my insurer cancel my policy?
Technically, in most states your insurer can cancel your policy only if:

you fail to pay your premium;

you lose your driver's license;

you are guilty of material misrepresentation during the application process--i.e., you fail to notify your insurer of a recorded violation, such as a drunk-driving offense; or

you fail to report a substantial change of risk, such as buying a high-powered sports car to replace a family sedan.

However, your insurer can choose not to renew your policy for a variety of reasons. Do you have a bad driving record? Have you received a lot of speeding tickets? Have you ever been caught driving drunk? Not only are these scenarios considered unsafe and illegal, they are justifiable cause for your insurer to label you a bad risk and refuse to renew your policy. (Some underwriters may feel compelled to cancel policies after only one accident.) Where do you live? Has the neighborhood changed in the last few years? Have the accident or crime rates risen noticeably? As regions are reassessed periodically, their status could change and you could suddenly find yourself living in a high-risk area, where your insurer's rates may not be adequate to cover losses.

HOME SAFETY TIPS

2008-03-24T05:12:00.001-07:00

Lightning Protection

Electrical Hazards: Protecting Yourself, Your Home, and Your Assets
Can you imagine living without the conveniences of microwave ovens, telephones, televisions, home computers, washing machines, and dryers? By recognizing electrical hazards that may be present in your home, you can protect your family, home, and assets from damage caused by electrical surges Some of the more costly appliances that use or conduct electricity like air conditioners, heaters, televisions, garage door openers, telephones, and well pumps have the possibility of failure. Lightning and electrical surges can also cause a shock hazard or fire hazard if protective steps are not taken. The good news: DAMAGE CAUSED BY MOST ELECTRICAL SURGES CAN BE PREVENTED. To prevent damage caused by electrical surges, consider utilizing lightning protection systems and surge protection devices, investing in Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs), and following some general prevention tips.
How to Choose Surge Protection for Your Home

You may not realize it, but your stereo system, home computer, television, VCR, microwave oven -- anything with internal electronic circuits -- is under attack every day. The attacks are silent, but destructive.

The culprit -- POWER SURGES. Power surges are extremely brief spikes in electrical power that burn up the electrical circuits inside appliances and electronics. For more detail about what power surges are and where they come from, read Facts about Power Surges.

Not only can power surges destroy appliances and electronics, they can ruin electrical outlets, light switches, light bulbs, air conditioner components, and garage door openers. How can you protect yourself?

Surge protection devices can prevent the damages from most power surges. There are two types:

Service entrance surge protection device, which is mounted at or near the incoming electrical service

Point-of-use surge protection device, which is used at the appliance being protected and includes the type of surge protectors that plug into a wall outlet

Preventing Water Damage in Your Home

From broken pipes to leaking appliances, water damage can wreak havoc, destroying your home, personal property, and irreplaceable family heirlooms. In many case water damage can be avoided with routine maintenance and assistance from qualified contractors.

It will be well worth your time to take a few extra moments every week to check potential trouble spots in and around your home. Early detection could mean the difference between a simple mop-up job and major construction repairs.

Inside Your Home

Roof

Hardware

Buying a New Roof and Getting Your Money's Worth

Roof System Components

All steep-slope roof systems (i.e., roofs with slopes of 25 percent or more) have five basic components:

Roof covering: shingles, tile, slate or metal and underlayment that protect the sheathing from weather.

Sheathing: boards or sheet material that are fastened to the roof rafters to cover a house or building.

Roof structure: rafters and trusses constructed to support the sheathing.

Flashing: sheet metal or other material installed into a roof system’s various joints and valleys to prevent water seepage.

Drainage: a roof system’s design features, such as shape, slope and layout that affect its ability to shed water.

Choosing a Roof System
Ventilation and Insulation Are Key
Even Roofs Have Enemies
Choosing a Contractor

Don't Let a Finished Basement Finish You

Steps You Can Take to Reduce Sewer and Drain Losses

When it rains, it pours, and sewers and drains can back up, filling your basement with foul-smelling water and sewage. Each year, sewer and drain backups cause millions of dollars in damage to the homes owned.

Since no one wants to experience the mess, inconvenience and out-of-pocket expenses that come with a sewer or drain backup, preventing losses from occurring is the best solution.

Make sure your drainage system is working properly.

Gutter downspouts should extend far enough away from the foundation of the house so that water is carried away from basement walls.

Your yard should be graded to slope away from the house so surface water is drained away.

If your gutters connect to storm sewers, keep drain lines clear.

Anti-backflow devices reduce the chances of basement flooding. Several types of devices are available.

Check-valve devices allow water and sewage to flow away from the drain, preventing water and sewage from backing up into the drain.

Gate-valve devices operate like a gate, closing and shutting off the flow of water and sewage.

Valves are manually or automatically operated.

No Frozen Pipes

Your carpet's soaked. Your furniture's ruined. You have to walk through six inches of water to get across your kitchen. You've fallen victim to a catastrophe, but it wasn't a flood or hurricane. You could have avoided this disaster. You can prevent frozen pipes.

Frozen pipes aren't just an inconvenience. An average of a quarter-million families have their homes ruined and their lives disrupted each winter…all because of water pipes that freeze, burst and destroy.

And if you think recovering from frozen pipes is as simple as calling a plumber, think again.

An eighth-inch (three millimeter) crack in a pipe can spew up to 250 gallons (946 liters) of water a day, wrecking floors, furniture and keepsakes. Both plastic (PVC) and copper pipes may burst.

Imagine if your pipes were to freeze and break while you were away on vacation: Your homecoming would be a soggy one and your fix-it plea to a plumber would have to be accompanied by calls to a contractor, carpet-layer, painter and furniture store. Damage might be so severe that you and your family would have to move out of your home while repairs are made.

By taking a few simple precautions, you can save yourself the mess, money and aggravation frozen pipes cause. Here are a few simple steps to protect your home or apartment:

Before the Cold Hits

Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic. These exposed pipes are most susceptible to freezing. Remember: The more insulation you use, the better protected your pipes will be.

Heat tape or thermostatically-controlled heat cables can be used to wrap pipes. Be sure to use products approved by an independent testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories Inc., and only for the use intended (exterior or interior). Closely follow all manufacturers' installation and operation instructions.

Seal leaks that allow cold air inside, near where pipes are located. Look for air leaks around electrical wiring, dryer vents and pipes. Use caulk or insulation to keep the cold out and the heat in. With severe cold, a tiny opening can let in enough cold air to cause a pipe to freeze.

Disconnect garden hoses and, if practical, use an indoor valve to shut off and drain water from pipes leading to outside faucets. This reduces the chance of freezing in the short span of pipe just inside the house.

When the Mercury Drops

A trickle of hot and cold water might be all it takes to keep your pipes from freezing. Let warm water drip overnight, preferably from a faucet on an outside wall.

Open cabinet doors to allow heat to get to uninsulated pipes under sinks and appliances near exterior walls.

If You're Away

Set the thermostat in your house no lower than 55 degrees (12 degrees Celsius).

Ask a friend or neighbor to check your house daily to make sure it's warm enough to prevent freezing, or…

Shut off and drain the water system. Be aware that if you have a fire protection sprinkler system in your house, it will be deactivated when you shut off the water.

If Your Pipes Freeze

Don't take chances. If you turn on your faucets and nothing comes out, leave the faucets turned on and call a plumber. If you detect that your water pipes have frozen and burst, turn off the water at the main shut-off valve in the house; leave the water faucets turned on. (Make sure everyone in your family knows where the water shut-off valve is and how to open and close it.)

Never try to thaw a pipe with a torch or other open flame. Water damage is preferable to burning down your house. You may be able to thaw a frozen pipe with the warm air from a hair dryer. Start by warming the pipe as close to the faucet as possible, working toward the coldest section of pipe.

Do not use electrical appliances in areas of standing water because you could be electrocuted.

Attic Ventilation and Water Damage

Ice dams and attic condensation can cause severe damage to homes. Attic ventilation is one of the key factors in preventing this type of damage in northern climates.

This article explains the importance of attic ventilation and other factors that can help prevent ice dams and attic condensation.

Cold Climates

Two types of attic water damage are common in cold climates: ice dams and condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in the attic.

Ice Dams

Ice dams sometimes occur on sloping roofs in climates with extended below freezing temperatures combined with several inches of snow. When winter conditions are just right (usually outside air temperatures in the low 20°s (°F) for several days with several inches of snow on the roof), ice dams can form at the eaves if the air temperature in the attic rises to above freezing. The elevated attic air temperature causes snow on the roof to melt and run down the sloping roof. Once the snowmelt runs down beyond the exterior walls below, it refreezes.

If this cycle repeats over several days, the freezing snowmelt builds up and forms a dam of ice, behind which water ponds. The ponding water can back up under the roof covering and leak into the attic or along exterior walls.

Research indicates keeping the attic air temperature below freezing when the outside air temperature is in the low 20s (°F) can reduce the occurrence of ice dams. If the outside air temperature is colder than the low 20ºs, keeping the attic air temperature below freezing is usually not a problem. When the outside air temperature is higher than the low 20ºs, the snowmelt on the roof usually does not refreeze at the roof eaves. Research has shown sun exposure in the winter has little effect on attic air temperature. Warm air penetrating into the attic from living spaces below is usually the culprit in the formation of ice dams.

Attic Condensation

Condensation of water vapor on cold surfaces in attics can cause attic wood products to rot, which can lead to costly repairs. Condensation typically occurs when warm, moist air migrates into the attic from the living spaces below. Research indicates unusually high humidity levels in the home's living spaces is strongly associated with attic condensation problems.

Building codes have some requirements that attempt to prevent the problems of ice dams and attic condensation. But codes do not address all the issues, and many houses are built without following building codes. It is the role of the builder or designer to understand the relationship of humidity and air movement when designing and constructing the house so these problems don't occur.

Prevention

Your Guide to Woodburners

Are you sure your woodburner or solid fuel burning appliance, is installed and maintained properly?

These appliances must be carefully used to help reduce the chance of a fire. Review the information in your unit's instruction manual to help you determine if it is installed and maintained properly. If you are not sure, contact your local fire department, building official or a certified chimney sweep for additional information.

Your safety depends upon a properly installed, operated and maintained solid fuel burning system.

Your Guide to Woodburners & Solid Fuel Burning Appliances

Solid fuel burning appliances are enjoying widespread popularity. In addition to the savings in fuel costs, some have been installed for the “romantic feel” they add to a home. Although these units may save fuel and add charm, they have become the largest source of heating related fires in U.S. homes today.

According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), solid fuel burning appliances cause approximately 5-10% of all residential home fires. In addition, solid fuel burning appliances cause an average of over 300 deaths and 200 injuries per year. Some of the major causes of solid fuel burning appliance related fires are:

Inadequate clearances from the unit to combustibles, such as walls, ceilings, floors, and furniture.

Excessive creosote buildup in the chimney. Creosote is a black substance that resembles a tar-like liquid or small black flakes. Creosote burns easily.

An improperly installed or poorly maintained chimney.

Improper installation and maintenance of the appliance itself.

Heating with solid fuel requires that you become aware of these and other hazards and take whatever action is needed to correct them.

Planning for a Solid Fuel Appliance

Before buying, take time to do some planning. Contact your local fire department and/or building code officials to inquire about local ordinances on woodburning and other solid fuel burning appliances. Also, determine if a permit is necessary before you install such a unit.

If you live where a solid fuel burning appliance has already been installed, try to obtain the operating manual from the previous owner. If you cannot, try to locate the manufacturer’s information plate (label) mounted on the unit, ask a dealer that sells your unit for another copy, or contact the manufacturer.

When looking for appliances, look for one that is UL (Underwriters Laboratories) listed or tested by a nationally recognized testing laboratory; shows quality craftsmanship; has tight-fitting doors and a detailed operating manual.

If your appliance is listed by a nationally recognized testing laboratory it should meet minimum industry-accepted safety standards. Check your unit to see if it is listed by one of these organizations. There is a difference between being tested and being listed. Testing simply means the unit was tested, “listed” means the unit was tested and passed using the appropriate national standards from Underwriters Laboratories. Examples of nationally recognized testing laboratories that test and list solid fuel burning appliances include:

Applied Research Labs (www.arl-test.com)

Canadian Standards Association

(www.csa-international.org)

Omni Environmental Services (www.omni-test.com)

Underwriters Laboratories, Inc. (www.ul.com)

Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (www.ulc.ca)

ITS Warnock Hersey International, Inc. (www.warnockhersey.com)

Appliances made after October 1983 must have a label providing safety-related information. This label is required by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and provides information about the placement and use of the unit.

Types of Woodburners
Placement of the Woodburner
Masonry Chimneys
Chimney Maintenance
Multiple Venting
Maintenance of Your Woodburner

Smoke Alarms Save Lives

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates more than 94 percent of North American homes have at least one smoke alarm. But consider this fact: There are more homes with smoke alarms that don't work, than homes without any alarms. These poorly maintained units create a false sense of security for residents.

WORKING Smoke Alarms Save Lives
By properly selecting, placing, testing, and maintaining your smoke alarm, you will greatly increase your chances of surviving a home fire.

Alarm Selection

When you go to the store, you’ll find there are many different types of alarms on the market. There are standard battery-operated alarms, 10-year battery-operated alarms, and others that operate on the home’s electrical system.

Building codes and local requirements often dictate the type of power that will be required to operate smoke alarms.

There are also special alarms for people with hearing impairments. These have both an audible alarm and intense flashing lights.

No matter what type of alarm you purchase, make sure it is listed or approved by an independent testing laboratory, such as Underwriters Laboratories (UL) or the Canadian Standards Association (CSA).

One? Two? Three? More?

Beyond the type of smoke detector, where it is placed is just as important as the type of smoke detector and how it is powered.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Life Safety Code 101 should be followed. Most codes require a minimum of one smoke alarm on every level, including basements, and within 15 feet of each sleeping area. If the door to the sleeping area is kept closed, it is also recommended that a smoke detector be placed inside the bedroom.

In new construction, the code requires hard-wired smoke alarms to be interconnected. This means that if one smoke alarm is activated, all alarms will sound. New construction also requires a smoke alarm be installed in each bedroom.

Put ‘em Up

Installing a smoke alarm is simple. A screwdriver and a drill are all you need to install a battery-operated alarm. Other alarms can also be hardwired directly into your home’ electrical system. Hardwire installation should be done by a qualified electrician. Be sure to never connect an alarm to a circuit that can be turned off by a wall switch. Hard-wired systems should also be provided with a battery back up.

Always follow the manufacturer’s installation instruction.

Wall-mounted alarms should be installed so the top is 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) from the ceiling.
Ceiling-mounted units should be installed at least 6 inches (15 cm) from any wall.
If a room has a vaulted ceiling, mount the alarm at or near the ceiling’s highest point.
In stairways with no doors at the top or bottom, position alarms in the path smoke would follow up the stairwell.
Mount alarms at the bottom of closed stairways, such as those leading to a basement. Dead air trapped near the door at the top of a stairway could prevent smoke from reaching an alarm located at the top.
Don’t install an alarm too close to windows, doors, forced-air registers, or ceiling fans where drafts could interfere with the detector’s operation.
If you have questions about the best places to install alarms, contact your local fire department for advice. Many departments will conduct home smoke alarm inspections for free or for a nominal fee.

Maintenance: The Key to Your Escape
Too Hot to Handle

Selling a Home

2008-03-24T05:11:00.001-07:00

Here you have some tips for selling a Home

Set your price carefully -- too high and buyers may not consider it, too low and you're selling yourself short. Realtors often give a free home market analysis if you ask. This gives you idea of how your home compares financially with similar, recently sold homes in your area. The analysis may also include how much you might expect to earn after closing.

Don't break the bank preparing your home for sale. Pricey items such as a new roof may be big hits with buyers, but rarely does the buying price end up covering the payout for such costly home improvements. When possible, stick with the simpler (and less expensive) options rather than major remodeling.

First impressions say a lot, so curb appeal is important. Keep your lawn and other landscaping neatly trimmed, weeded and watered. Check the exterior of your home for signs of wear and damage, such as peeling paint, foundation cracks or loose shingles, and fix what is needed. Clean the outside of the house, including windows. Many people suggest giving the front door a fresh coat of paint for that warm, welcome feeling. In addition, adding a few flowers in the spring and summer, or keeping the walks cleared of leaves and snow in the fall and winter can be inviting to potential buyers.

Your home is your castle, so show it at its best. The obvious seller's commandment: thou shalt clean. Remove all clutter from every room, including closets. Organize your basement and attic. Have a garage sale with all the stuff you don't want to move to your next home! Wipe down and paint walls and trim if necessary. Many people advocate repainting with a neutral color palette to appeal to a wider range of potential buyers. Clean all windows, light fixtures, and ceiling fans. Bathrooms should always be squeaky clean. Inspect and make any necessary repairs to the plumbing, heating, cooling and electrical systems. Highlight the bath and kitchen by selecting some attractive new towels, curtains, or cabinetry knobs.

Maintain the new and improved interior and exterior of your home until you successfully sell. It's hard, but it's necessary. A professional cleaning service may be able to help maintain the new clean look with occasional visits.

When showing your house, provide plenty of light and make your home a warm, welcoming place. Open the curtains to let in the sunshine. In the event of an evening showing, make sure you have ample lighting available in all areas. Fresh cut flowers make a nice addition, and a pleasantly scented house is very inviting.

Many realtors and potential buyers would prefer that the seller not be present during a showing, to avoid limiting the buyers' conversation or making them uncomfortable. Children and pets should also be absent or out of the buyers' way during a showing, if at all possible.

BUYING A HOME

2008-03-24T05:09:00.001-07:00

Buying a New Home

Looking at new homes can be fun, but it helps to know how much you can afford. When you've selected your new home, be sure to investigate your agent bank home mortgage loans. They also have a home equity line of credit for any future needs.

Don't forget the importance of homeowners insurance to protect your new home and its contents! And of course, you'll want to learn about how to best protect your new home.

RENTERS INSURANCE

2008-03-24T05:06:00.001-07:00

What is Renters Insurance?

Renters insurance is designed for anyone who rents a home, be it a house or an apartment. You may not own the place where you live, but you still need insurance protection.

Here are some specific reasons you should consider buying a renters insurance:

The policy can provide protection for your personal property
against such perils as fire, theft, and vandalism.

The renters policy is remarkably inexpensive
To see for yourself, get an online renters rate quote today.

You could be held responsible for injury to another person
or for damage to another person's property if an incident occurred within your rented residence, or elsewhere. Renters insurance can help protect you in case of a liability lawsuit against you.

You could be eligible for premium discounts
on both renters and auto insurance when you purchase both policies from State Farm. Not available in some states or provinces.

A renters insurance flexible
allowing you to select the coverages and insurance amounts that suit your needs.

A reputation for quality service
is a primary reason people choose an agent or another for their insurance needs.

What is Renters Insurance?

The amount of personal property coverage you need depends on how much your property is worth.

You may think your things aren’t worth much, but the average person has over $20,000 worth of stuff. Stuff that’s probably not covered by a landlord’s policy.

This chart shows an example of typical personal property replacement values for a two-bedroom apartment. Your values may run more or less.

Take inventory

A great way to determine how much coverage you need is to take a complete inventory of your possessions:

List each item, when you acquired it and the purchase price or current value.

Total up the amounts of these items to give you a rough idea of what your property is worth.

Once this is done, put your inventory in a safe place away from home -- for example, in a bank safe deposit box.

Consider adding photos to your inventory -- they can help if you have a claim.

Something else to keep in mind

Coverage for certain types of property has a dollar limit. Here is a typical list of the types of property that may have "special limits" in a renters policy:

Money, bank notes, coins

Business property (on and off premises)

Securities, negotiable instruments

Watercraft, including trailers, furnishings and equipment

Trailers (other than boat trailers)

Jewelry and furs

Firearms (limitation applies to theft only)

Silverware and goldware (limitation applies to theft only)

If you have this type of property, you may need special coverage -- either an endorsement or a personal articles policy.

General questions to ask yourself regarding your renters insurance needs

-How much are my belongings worth?
-Can I afford to buy it all back again if it were destroyed in a fire or stolen?
-What would I do in the event of a liability lawsuit against me?

What are my deductible options?

Deductibles

The deductible is the portion of a covered loss that is your responsibility. Although deductibles vary by state, they are typically available in amounts such as $250, $500, or $1000.

For example, if you had a $500 deductible, you would need to pay $500 of the covered loss.

Generally speaking, higher deductibles lower your premium, but increase the amount you must pay out of your own pocket if a covered loss occurs. Ask yourself how much you are willing to pay in order to save on premium.

Other things you should know about our renters insurance policies

Loss Settlement Provisions/Personal Property

Limited Replacement Cost Loss Settlement

Provides payment based on the cost to repair or replace the damaged property at the time of loss, if actually replaced.

Depreciated Loss Settlement

Provides payment based on the cost to repair or replace damaged property less depreciation at the time of loss.

Personal Property Special Limits

While the Personal Property Loss Settlement provisions determine the loss payment on your personal property, it’s important that you know that special limits apply to certain types of property.

CONDOOWNERS INSURANCE

2008-03-24T05:02:00.000-07:00

What is Condoowner Insurance?

A condominium combines the convenience of apartment living with the investment advantage of ownership. This form of ownership may create some unique insurance challenges.

You insurance agent offer a policy specifically designed for individual condominium unit owners. Condo Unit Owner policy is for the customer who owns and occupies (at least part of the year) a dwelling unit in a structure owned and insured by a Condominium Association, a Townhome Association, a Cooperative, a Homeowner Association, a Planned Community or similar types of organizations.

In many instances, the condominium/association entity assumes responsibility for insuring certain types of damage to the dwelling structure. When the condominium/association insures the structure, a unit owner policy is normally written to cover the unit owner.

In other instances, the condominium/association does not insure the structure. In this situation, a homeowner’s policy would be written for the unit owner, just as it would be for an insured person with a conventional home.
Why do I need?

You have chosen a popular alternative to buying a one-family home or renting an apartment.

With ownership comes the need to protect your investment through insurance. Buying coverage, however, is different for a condominium/ association owner than for owners of conventional homes or renters. That is why a special unit owners policy has been developed.

The Condominium/ Association Master Policy

Because it can be more efficient or economical, your association may insure all the building and common elements under a single package policy, commonly called an association master policy. The three typical ways to provide coverage, all through an association policy: Insures the basic building(s) (walls, roof, floors, elevators) but leaves to you the responsibility of insuring appliances, carpeting, cabinets, wall coverings, and other items in your unit, and in some instances the interior walls.

Insures both the basic building(s) and the items within your unit other than personal property.

Insures both basic building(s) and includes unit owner fixtures and improvements.

Building Coverage

When an association master policy insures some of the buildings, a condominium unit owners policy provides coverage for:

Items not covered by the association master policy that may be your insurance responsibility.

The value of building additions or alterations made by you, at your expense.

Value added (If you've put in a better quality carpet than was originally there, for example, this coverage would make up the difference in case of loss).

Damage to your unit not compensated because of the master policy deductible.

If this sounds a bit complicated, it is. Building coverage is one of the more complex parts of insuring an association. You should discuss your needs fully with your agent.

Your Personal Property Coverage

Because you have a large investment in your personal property, you need enough coverage to compensate you if you suffer a covered loss.

One study has found that many condominium/ association unit owners are underinsured in terms of their personal property.

Whatever type of association you live in, a good way to be certain you have adequate coverage is to complete an inventory of your possessions and their purchase date and price. Some insurers have inventory forms available to assist you.

Put your inventory listing in a safe place outside your home. Photographs or video will supplement your inventory. To speed up your claim settlement if you have a covered loss, save receipts for major purchases.

Check to make sure your policy has an inflation-guard feature -- one that automatically increases coverage for belongings.

Other Special Needs

If you operate an office or small business in your home, you may need special coverage. Check with your agent if you have a home business. This will help make sure that you have the right kind of coverage.

Putting it all together

Condominium/ association living has grown in popularity and the insurance industry has responded by providing a broad selection of coverages and policies. Remember, however, that conditions in condominium/ association bylaws and other governing regulations may vary widely. Be certain that your policy covers any potential gaps in the condominium/ association master policy.

Discuss these needs with your insurance agent -- someone you most likely already trust for you car, life and health insurance needs.

Don't delay. The best protection against financial loss is well-planned coverage of your home and your possessions.

Differences with the standard home insurance policy

A unit owners policy is usually appropriate for the individual condominium/association unit owner when the association insures the physical structure. It is somewhat like a standard home insurance policy, with some differences.

How it’s similar

Coverage A, Building Property, protects your items of real property which are a part of your unit and your responsibility according to the governing rules of your Condominium/ Association.

Coverage L, Personal Liability, can help protect your assets in case you are legally responsible for property damage or injury to others.

How it’s different

The unit owners policy can help you meet certain obligations that arise from your shared responsibility within the Condominium/Association.

Insurance facts for condo owners

As a condominium owner you have special insurance needs.

Your condominium building structure and all common property are usually protected by a policy purchased through the condominium association, but what about your personal belongings, theft losses, and personal liability protection?

Check out the answers to these and other commonly-asked questions about condominium insurance.

Many condo owners don't realize they have a lot to lose, whether it's personal belongings or loss due to legal liability. If you don't already have a condominium owners insurance policy, you may have questions about the importance of condominium insurance and the coverages provided. Checkout the answers. You'll be surprised to learn just how much you risk losing without proper insurance for both your personal liability and your personal belongings.

Why would I need a condominium owners policy if my association has insurance?

Your association does not provide insurance protection for the personal belongings in your individual unit or for damages resulting from an accidental loss which you become legally obligated to pay.

What will the Condominium Owners Policy provide?*

Most of your personal belongings are covered from loss by fire, theft, and many other types of insured perils up to the limits stated in your policy. You're also protected against loss from theft both at home and away from home, and against liability losses for accidents to visitors in your home -- and more!

Would condominium insurance cover extra living expenses I might have to pay if my building becomes uninhabitable due to a covered loss?

Yes, in fact an excellent reason for having condominium insurance is the Loss of Use of Your Residence Premises Coverage. The policy will pay the reasonable increase in your living expenses necessary to maintain your standard of living for up to the amount of time specified in the policy if you're forced to move out because of damage to your residence by an insured peril (subject to policy terms and conditions).

What would happen if the limits of the condominium association policy weren't sufficient to cover a major loss?

You could be responsible for paying additional assessments out of your own pocket if your association's insurance isn't enough. If you purchase the Optional Loss Assessments coverage your share of covered losses will be paid up to the Loss Assessments Coverage limit (subject to policy terms and conditions).

What if I'm held-up while I'm away from my home, or if I'm a pick-pocket victim?

A Condominium Owners Policy can provide coverage for theft whether it occurs at home or away from home. This coverage includes protection against loss from robbery, pick-pocket theft … even credit card loss, forged checks, or counterfeit money (subject to policy terms and conditions).

*Insurance Coverage is subject to availability and qualifications. Other terms,

conditions and exclusions may apply.

Would I be able to replace my television if it were destroyed by fire or stolen?

You could if your condominium owners insurance has replacement cost coverage such as the Personal Property Replacement Cost option available. If you purchase this option, you could repair or replace your television (or other covered items) if damaged by an insured peril (subject to policy terms and conditions). In addition, there is no deduction for depreciation if the item is replaced (up to the limits stated in your policy).

If a guest falls or is injured in my home, would I be covered by my condominium owners insurance?

A Condominium Owners Policy includes Guest Medical Protection Coverage. If a guest is accidentally injured in your home, the policy will pay the guest's medical expenses up to your coverage limits (subject to policy terms and conditions).

What if my child accidentally breaks a neighbor's window?

A Condominium Owners Policy covers property damage caused by you or your family members who are residents of your household (up to policy limits and subject to policy terms and conditions).

Home owners insurance

2008-03-20T18:53:00.000-07:00

HOME INSURANCE

Buildings insurance
This is often a condition of the lender giving you a mortgage so, in the event of a disaster, it can be repaired or rebuilt. If you don’t have buildings insurance and your house burns down, the lender will have no collateral for its loan, so will call it in.
In which case, not only will you be homeless, but you’ll still owe the lender the value of the mortgage. Because so many lenders have suffered this, they now insist you provide proof the property is insured.
The lender will ask you to cover the property for the rebuild cost, which should be noted in the survey. In most areas of the country this will be considerably less than the market value of the property. Most insurers cover you for the rebuild cost, although some will cover you for the market value. Check which one your policy will pay out on.

What it covers
As a matter of course, most buildings insurance policies cover the fabric of the building, including built-in kitchen units and bathroom suites, outbuildings, including sheds and garages, and any walls, gates or fences.
These tend to be covered against damage or destruction caused by fire, storms, theft, vandalism, escaped water, flooding and subsidence.

Accidental damages
Some also offer accidental damage as standard, but in most cases you will have to pay extra for this cover.
This is the element that covers damage caused by, for example, drilling through a pipe. So if you plan to do any DIY on the property, it's well worth considering.
The cost of adding on this type of cover will vary, as will the cost of the basic policy, as insurers base their premium calculations on a number of factors.

How much it costs
The main factors are the age of the property, postcode, age of policyholder, number of bedrooms and type of property. Generally, the cheapest type of property to insure is a semi-detached house.
When you sign up for a mortgage the lender will ask you if you want to sign up for its buildings and contents cover. This is unlikely to be the cheapest cover.

Contents insurance

This cover is optional but it's not a good idea to skimp. In the 12 months before September 2002 there were 982,000 burglaries in England and Wales, and there are many other ways you can lose your possessions.

Contents insurance covers the things that aren't part of the fabric of your home, such as furniture, electrical equipment and clothes. It also covers curtains, carpets and things in your garden, and most polices also cover the contents of your freezer.

As with buildings insurance, most policies pay out in the event of a burglary, vandalism, fire, storm and flood, and premiums are calculated according to the type of property you own and its location.

However, contents insurance is perhaps more complicated to buy than buildings cover because of the large number of items most people have in their homes and the wide range of scenarios covered by insurers.

Accidental damages

Accidental damage cover is available on contents insurance policies. This will protect you against things like paint spillage and damage caused by pets, so it's a good idea to take it if you plan to redecorate or have a cat that loves to scratch furniture.

Adding this cover usually costs extra, although some insurers include some level of cover as a matter of course.

HOMEOWNERS INSURANCE

Homeowners is one of the most popular forms of personal insurance on the market. The typical homeowners policy has two main sections: Section I covers your property, and Section II provides personal liability coverage (to cover you in case of lawsuits arising from things that happen on your property). Almost anyone who owns or leases property should have this type of insurance. Often, homeowners insurance is required by lenders as a requirement to obtain a mortgage.
Why you need a Homeowner Insurance?

The largest single investment most consumers make is in their home. The consumer can protect his or her home, possessions, and liability with a homeowner’s insurance policy.

In addition to its availability to homeowners, similar coverage is available to those who rent homes or apartments. These policies are referred to as tenants’ or renters’ homeowner’s policies. If you are a renter, you do not need protection against damage to the building itself, but you do need protection against damage to or theft of your personal property and liability in the event someone falls or gets hurt on the part of the premises you rent.

A condominium owner may purchase a condominium homeowner’s policy to insure personal property. Some policies may also include any additions or alterations not insured by the condominium association. It is important to check with your condominium association and your agent before buying a policy to make sure you are adequately covered.

All the Insurances you need

2008-03-17T19:03:00.001-07:00

1.Home Insurance
2.Car Insurance
3.Travel Insurance
4.Health Insurance
5.Life Insurance

European Insurance Companies

2008-03-17T18:56:00.000-07:00

-Aig Europe(life insurance) Meeting the needs of companies and individuals for over 60 years AIG Europe S.A. is proud of its ability to innovate, to solve problems rather than merely sell policies.
Their growth and success over the last 60 years is founded on our commitment to understand the needs of our clients, whether they are a multinational company, small or medium-sized business or an individual........for more info about Aig europe click here
-Ace Travel Insurance(travel)The ACE Group of Companies is one of the world’s largest providers of insurance and reinsurance. Since its inception in 1985, ACE has expanded rapidly and now operates in 50 countries around the world.As a leader in global insurance and reinsurance, we understand the business of protection. Through innovative thinking, global diversification and a strong commitment to customer satisfaction, we protect the well-being of people around the world, so that they can move forward with confidence........for more please click here
-Bupa International-Medical and healthcare insurance We are the world's largest provider of international expatriate health insurance, supplying quality individual and group medical cover to people who are in their home country or living and working abroad.Whether you're looking for a medical health insurance plan for yourself, your family or your employees, we can offer you exceptional levels of protection and support.....for more just click here

All the Insurances you need

2008-03-17T09:41:00.001-07:00

1.Home Insurance
2.Car Insurance
3.Travel Insurance
4.Health Insurance
5.Life Insurance

Travel Insurance

2008-03-17T09:29:00.000-07:00

Why you need a Travel Insurance?

Travel insurance covers a number of possible mishaps that can occur on the road. Peace of mind comes from knowing that if one experiences terrorism, a need for medical attention, emergency evacuation, or bankruptcy of a trip organizer, there will be recourse. Travel should be about wonder and delight, not anxiety and lost funds.
Travel insurance is much more affordable than people think, whether they buy it for one trip or for unlimited annual use. Some of the travel insurance types available include flight accident insurance, trip cancellation insurance, travel medical insurance, and even custom insurance products. Nearly every conceivable mishap can be insured against, to ensure against financial loss.
Although the Government has rejected regulating the travel insurance industry, the Consumers' Association says research into the way such insurance is sold has uncovered some startling results.
Their investigators found extensive evidence of mis-selling, which, it says, highlights the need for industry regulation to ensure consumers are protected regardless of where they buy their travel insurance.
Researchers called on travel agents to buy insurance, and found that just one out of 28 travel agents checked customers for pre-existing medical conditions, as well as explaining what the policy did - and did not - cover.
So what are the alternatives to taking the policy your travel agent offers? Competition in the travel insurance market is fierce these days, as supermarkets, building societies and internet sources vie to offer the best deals.

What does it Cost

In respect to the amount of grief and hideous expense an accident abroad can cost you, travel insurance is laughably cheap. For around $20 a week, it buys peace of mind.
However, most of us are paying over the odds for our travel insurance because of sheer inertia.
We take the first deal on offer, whatever the price - and whether or not the insurance offered - is right for us. So many of us jet off to sunnier climes with travel insurance that simply doesn’t cover us.

Policy Checklist

So what should you look for in a travel insurance policy? Levels of cover vary widely, but the Consumers’ Association recommends that you should have:

at least $1m of medical cover in Europe

at least $2m in the States and the rest of the world

at least $1,500 baggage and belongings cover - and watch out for policies which limit the amount you can claim for any one item. Check that the total covers you for what you’re actually taking abroad.

Personal liability of at least $1m, to cover you if you cause injury or damage

Compensation for trips which may be cancelled or curtailed – and the costs of getting you home in an emergency

A 24-hour emergency line, and cover for your legal costs as well

Membership of the Financial Ombudsman Service, in case you need to complain – the Ombudsman can intervene and make your insurer settle

Health Insurance

2008-03-17T09:24:00.001-07:00

What is a Health Insurance?

It's a fact of life — you need health insurance — and the time to get it is before you have an accident, suffer a serious illness, or discover you're pregnant. Insurance doesn't cover health care for medical problems or conditions that start before the moment you have your policy. Finding adequate coverage may seem overwhelming, but knowing the basics can help make your search less stressful.

The Basics of Short-Term Health Insurance

Whether you're graduating from college, leaving home for the first time, or between jobs, a major change in your lifestyle often dictates a change in your health insurance coverage. For these circumstances, some health insurers offer short-term or temporary health plans (sometimes called "major medical" plans) to fill in the gaps between traditional policies.
With low premiums and high deductibles, short-term policies are designed to be more of a low-cost safety net in case of serious injury or illness than a comprehensive day-to-day health insurance plan. Benefits are limited and there are strict eligibility requirements to qualify. Additionally, temporary health insurance is just as the name implies, only a temporary solution. While some plans offer coverage for up to a year, most short-term policies offer between one month and six months of coverage.

Who needs short-term health insurance?

Despite its limitations, short-term health insurance serves an important function for certain groups of people:

Recent college graduates are among the most likely consumers of short-term health insurance, according to insurers such as GradMed that specifically target graduating students who will lose their health insurance when they leave school. Many grads will look for jobs that will offer health insurance benefits, but until they find that job, short-term insurance can fill the gap. (For recent grads looking for more permanent coverage, many college alumni associations offer some sort of group health policy to their members.

Short-term plans may also be attractive to individuals who are temporarily out of work. Many people who are laid off or are between jobs can continue coverage with their previous employer under the Consolidated Omnibus Budget Reconciliation Act of 1985 (COBRA) for up to 18 months, until a new employer's plan kicks in. However, some people may find that COBRA premiums are too high for their budget. A short-term policy with lower premiums may be the solution.

If your previous employer is a small business with less than 20 employees, you may not be covered under COBRA. Also, if your previous employer goes out of business, you will not be covered by COBRA because the insurance pool to which you once belonged will be dissolved. In these instances, a short-term policy may be your best option until you can find coverage elsewhere.

Those losing dependent status under their parents' health coverage are also likely consumers of short-term coverage. If you reach age 18 and are not enrolled as a full-time student, you will most likely be dropped from your parents' health insurance policy. In this situation, you will be eligible for COBRA, but premiums can be very high. A short-term policy can keep you insured for less until you find a job that offers health insurance, or you enroll in an individual health plan.

Finally, you might consider a short-term plan if you are temporarily without insurance for some other reason. Maybe you are out of work on strike, recently discharged from the military, or have retired early and need coverage until you qualify for Medicare.

How does it work?

One advantage to a short-term health insurance plan is that it works like an "indemnity" plan in the sense that you have no preferred care provider (PCP) or gatekeeper, and you are not confined to an HMO network of doctors. Short-term plans give you the freedom to go to any doctor or specialist you like.
The kind of treatments covered by a short-term policy are fairly comprehensive. Surgery, hospital care, emergency services, diagnostic tests, prescription drugs, follow-up office visits, and even limited mental health care are included under short-term coverage.

There are, however, several areas where short-term coverage falls short of a traditional policy:

Preventative care, including physical exams, immunizations, and PAP tests, as well as child-wellness care, are not covered, except where required by state law.

Like most individual health insurance policies, short-term coverage excludes pre-existing conditions. The "look-back" period for these conditions varies by state, but the most common rule for short-term policies is that providers may exclude coverage for conditions diagnosed or treated within the last five years. Because temporary policies are so short, the exclusion of pre-existing conditions will last the life of the policy.

Maternity care is almost never covered by short-term insurance. Most plans will cover complications arising from pregnancy, but routine doctors' visits are excluded.

Most short-term policies are nonrenewable. If you decide that you want to extend your short-term policy, your provider will make you apply for a new policy.
Most insurers will let you reapply only once, and the two policies together cannot exceed the maximum length of coverage issued by your insurer. For instance, if your insurer issues short-term policies for a maximum of six months, and your first policy was for four months, your second policy will only be good for a maximum of two months.
Some insurers will flatly refuse to issue you a second policy if you filed any claims under your previous short-term policy. Others might offer you another policy, but they will treat any injuries or illnesses that occurred during your previous short-term policy as pre-existing conditions and thus will not cover treatment related to such conditions.

What will it cost me?

One of the major appeals of a short-term policy is its low premiums. A typical plan can cost as little as $30 a month for a single male in his early 20s, according to quotes provided by Fortis Health (premiums vary significantly according to factors such as your age and where you live).
The flip side of paying such a low premium is the high deductible that accompanies this type of policy. While traditional policies require you to make co-payments for medical care as low as $5, short-term deductibles start at $250 and range into the thousands.
To illustrate the point, consider the single male in his early 20s who is paying only $30 a month for short-term coverage. The reason his premium is so low is that the deductible is a whopping $2,500.
Another thing to keep in mind is that with some short-term policies you must pay a deductible per injury or illness. That means that the deductible must be met each time you are treated for a new condition. With the high deductibles required by short-term providers, the money you pay out of pocket can really add up.
Even after you've met your deductible, most insurers won't pay the total remaining bill. Most plans let you choose one of two payment plans. Under the first plan, the insurer will pay 80 percent of the first $5,000 (this amount may vary among policies), and 20 percent of the costs thereafter. The second plan requires the insurer pay 50 percent of all costs after the deductible is met, up to the maximum benefit (usually $1 million or $2 million).
Many plans will also allow you to choose whether you want to pay a lump sum for a designated period of coverage or you want to pay your premiums on a monthly basis. The advantage of the monthly payment option is that it allows you to continue coverage for an unspecified number of months (but not more than a year). You will pay more for this flexibility, however.

Who's eligible?

In the end, if you still think that a short-term health insurance policy is right for you, there's a good chance that you won't qualify to get one.
Short-term policies with low premiums and high deductibles are designed to be a safety net and insurers don't want to provide safety-net policies with low premiums to people who are likely to need them.
Consequently, most insurers require that you are at least two weeks old and that your age will not advance past 65 during the life of the policy. If you have ever been denied health insurance before, you won't be eligible for short-term insurance, because a previous denial indicates you might have significant health problems.
In addition, you won't be eligible if: you are covered by another health insurance plan already, you work in a hazardous industry such as construction or aviation, or you play in collegiate or professional sports.
While no short-term health insurance provider will cover routine maternity care, some providers won't even issue a policy to a pregnant woman.
Many people may find short-term health insurance coverage appealing because of its relatively low price tag. However, it is important to remember that like any other product or service, you get what you pay for.

The Basics of Long Term Care Insurance

The harsh realities of aging in America are coming into sharp focus. Soon, a 95-year-old baby boomer without long term care insurance may have to rely on a 90-year-old spouse or a 70-year-old son or daughter for personal care.
Consumers can't rely on Medicare, Medicare supplementary insurance, or health insurance to help them meet long term care costs. They don't cover most long term care expenses.

When to Buy a Long Term Care Policy

When buying long term care insurance, your age is a primary factor in determining its cost. The younger you are when you get the policy, the cheaper your premiums will be. Of course, you also will be paying those premiums for a longer period of time before taking any benefits.
A good time to buy long term care insurance is between ages 50 and 55, according to the American Health Care Association (AHCA), a federation of 50 state health organizations representing assisted living, nursing facility, long term care, and subacute care providers. A policy that costs you $800 annually when you're 55 will cost you nearly twice as much if you wait to buy it when you're 65.
There is an exception, however. You might want to purchase a long term care policy before age 50 if your employer sponsors an attractive long term care group plan at an affordable price.
Most insurers won't sell you long term care insurance if you're over 85 or if you have a pre-existing medical condition such as heart disease or diabetes. A reputable insurer only sells long term care policies to reasonably healthy people who are at low risk of needing their benefits in the foreseeable future. So beware of policies and premiums that sound too good to be true.

Important Policy Features

The most crucial factor when choosing a long term care policy should be its benefit triggers, the set of conditions that must exist before you begin receiving coverage. Ordinarily, you must have an acute medical condition that requires skilled nursing care before your benefits kick in. The best, and most expensive, policies allow you to start receiving benefits if you suffer from a cognitive impairment such as Alzheimer's disease, even if you can bathe and dress yourself.
Bathing is one of several activities of daily living, or ADLs, which are the most commonly used benefit triggers. Your benefits begin when you are no longer able to perform a certain number of ADLs without assistance. (Your policy will determine that number. A good LTC policy will require the inability to perform two ADLs.)

A good long term care policy also will cover all levels of care — including custodial or personal care — in a variety of settings. Those settings include:

Adult day care: Sites that provide personal and skilled care, and recreational services.

Assisted living facilities: Living quarters that provide individualized personal care and health services for people who need help with personal care.

Facility care services: Licensed agencies that provide skilled nursing care, speech, physical, or occupational therapy, or help from health aides.

Nursing facilities: Residential sites for people who need daily medical care. Many nursing home stays are for a short rehabilitative period after an acute illness or injury such as a hip fracture.

Make sure you know exactly what types of services and facilities are covered by your long term care policy. If you don't go to the right kind of facility, your insurance company can refuse to pay for your care.
You also should investigate whether your policy has a nonforfeiture benefit, which is additional long term care coverage you can buy that protects some of your policy's value if you drop your policy or let it lapse. While this benefit offers some protection for your investment, it will raise your premiums. If you are confident you will be able to pay your premiums, even if there are future rate hikes, you can lower your costs by passing up this option. See Insure.com's "Choosing among long term care insurance riders".
Waiver of premium is another important feature in a long term care policy. This provision lets you stop paying premiums during the time you are receiving benefits. Read your policy carefully to see whether there are any restrictions on this feature, such as a requirement to be in a nursing home for a period of time (60 to 90 days is standard) before your premiums are waived.
Most long term care policies sold today must be guaranteed renewable, which means the insurer guarantees you the chance to renew your policy. It doesn't mean the insurer guarantees you a fixed premium. Note: Your premium will probably increase over time. While you can't be singled out for a rate increase — no matter how many claims you file — you should know that state regulators routinely grant increases to insurance companies to cover whole classes of policies that experience a large number of expensive claims.

LIFE INSURANCE

2008-03-17T09:19:00.000-07:00

What is a Life Insurance?

Life insurance is bought by someone in order to protect his or her family in case of death. This may be mainly bought by people who are the sole breadwinners of the family: without that money in the event of that person's death, the family couldn't survive. However, not many people truly know how life insurance policies work. Many people don't believe they can afford any life insurance and a few see it as an unneeded cost.

When take a life Insurance?

Why? Because the cost of life insurance cover is at an historic low.
Providing you’re in good health, if you took out life cover six years ago, in 99 out of 100 cases, you’ll find it’s cheaper now to get the same amount of cover. Even though you’re older and, in theory, a greater actuarial risk.
The reason life insurance premiums have come down is because of how the insurance industry reacted to AIDS.
Initially, premiums rocketed upwards but when the expected epidemic failed to materialise, from the mid 1990s onwards, premiums fell rapidly.

Term life insurance

Term life insurance is the simplest - and cheapest - form of life insurance. Basically, you decide the amount of money you want your nearest and dearest to get in the event of your premature demise.
Term life insurance pays a tax-free lump sum in the event of death within a specified period of your choice (known as the 'term'). Fixed monthly - or annual - premiums are paid for the duration of the term.
A whole bunch of variables - your age, gender, state of health, previous ill health, the term you require - determines how much the premium will be.
For example, a 32-year-old non-smoking male requiring $190.000 of cover for 25 years will pay around $20 a month. And the premiums are fixed for the whole 25-year term.
You’re covered for as long as you pay the monthly premiums. If you stop paying the premiums, the policy terminates. With this form of life insurance, there’s no investment element.
If you get to the end of the term and haven’t claimed, you forfeit all the premiums you’ve paid. No claim, no gain - but at least term insurance is cheap and the premiums remain constant.

How much life insurance do you need?

Sadly, almost nobody has as much life insurance as they think they have.
Many people insure their lives for &190.000 because it sounds like a lot of money - and it is.
But is it enough for surviving dependants to live off? Can it pay off all your mortgages, loans and credit cards and still leave a big enough sum to generate an income?
People hugely miscalculate the rate at which a family can get an income from a lump sum. At current levels, without risking the capital, the $190.000 may pay a maximum annual income of $8.000.
To calculate the amount of cover you need, a budgeting exercise should throw up the amount of money a household requires to maintain its standard of living for a year.
Take that figure and multiply it by a factor of 25, which allows for the tax you’ll pay on the income, and that’s how much of a lump sum you need a policy to pay out for your dependants to continue living their current lifestyle for 15 to 20 years.

CAR INSURANCE

2008-03-17T09:13:00.000-07:00

What is a Car Insurance?

This is insurance which protects the insured against losses involving the use of automobiles. Various coverages may be bought depending on the desires of the insured. Such coverages include the liability coverages of bodily injury, property damage, and medical payments, and the physical damage coverages of collision and comprehensive.

Why do I need it?

In some states, to drive (get license plates) you must carry:
Liability coverage to pay for losses you cause others, or:

No-fault coverage to pay you and your passengers for medical and related expenses caused by injuries from a car accident, regardless of fault, or

Both coverages.

Car Insurance Guide

Buying a Car
Buying a new or used car can be a nightmare...or a reasonably pleasant experience, based to a large degree on the level of your preparation and the extent of your information. We will arm you with the information and the preparation that you need to achieve your best deal when buying a car!

HOME INSURANCE

2008-03-17T09:04:00.000-07:00

What is home Insurance
Home insurance breaks down into two distinct types: buildings insurance and contents insurance. You can buy a single policy that covers you for both, but it’s best to treat them as two separate policies: the cheapest insurer on the house might not be the cheapest for the contents.

What is homeowner insurance?

What is Condoowner Insurance?

INSURANCES GUIDE

2008-03-15T10:20:00.000-07:00

INSURANCES GUIDE

All to often we speak with insurance consumers that don't fully understand the industry or the products that are available. Consumers understand deductibles and generally co insurance percentages if they have any and the rest is somewhat of a mystery.

We fully understand that insurance can be a confusing and frustrating experience and that's exactly why we've put together this website. To educate and give you non biased information on Life, Auto, and Homeowners Insurance. Hopefully, we will shed some light on some questions you may have and give you information you didn't even know you needed.

Insurance....What is it????

2008-03-10T08:58:00.000-07:00

Insurance, in law and economics, is a form of risk management primarily used to hedge against the risk of a contingent loss. Insurance is defined as the equitable transfer of the risk of a loss, from one entity to another, in exchange for a premium. Insurer is the company that sells the insurance. Insurance rate is a factor used to determine the amount, called the premium, to be charged for a certain amount of insurance coverage. Risk management, the practice of appraising and controlling risk, has evolved as a discrete field of study and practice.

Commercially insurable risks typically share seven common characteristics.^[1]

A large number of homogeneous exposure units. The vast majority of insurance policies are provided for individual members of very large classes. Automobile insurance, for example, covered about 175 million automobiles in the United States in 2004.^[2] The existence of a large number of homogeneous exposure units allows insurers to benefit from the so-called “law of large numbers,” which in effect states that as the number of exposure units increases, the actual results are increasingly likely to become close to expected results. There are exceptions to this criterion. Lloyd's of London is famous for insuring the life or health of actors, actresses and sports figures. Satellite Launch insurance covers events that are infrequent. Large commercial property policies may insure exceptional properties for which there are no ‘homogeneous’ exposure units. Despite failing on this criterion, many exposures like these are generally considered to be insurable.
Definite Loss. The event that gives rise to the loss that is subject to insurance should, at least in principle, take place at a known time, in a known place, and from a known cause. The classic example is death of an insured on a life insurance policy. Fire, automobile accidents, and worker injuries may all easily meet this criterion. Other types of losses may only be definite in theory. Occupational disease, for instance, may involve prolonged exposure to injurious conditions where no specific time, place or cause is identifiable. Ideally, the time, place and cause of a loss should be clear enough that a reasonable person, with sufficient information, could objectively verify all three elements.
Accidental Loss. The event that constitutes the trigger of a claim should be fortuitous, or at least outside the control of the beneficiary of the insurance. The loss should be ‘pure,’ in the sense that it results from an event for which there is only the opportunity for cost. Events that contain speculative elements, such as ordinary business risks, are generally not considered insurable.
Large Loss. The size of the loss must be meaningful from the perspective of the insured. Insurance premiums need to cover both the expected cost of losses, plus the cost of issuing and administering the policy, adjusting losses, and supplying the capital needed to reasonably assure that the insurer will be able to pay claims. For small losses these latter costs may be several times the size of the expected cost of losses. There is little point in paying such costs unless the protection offered has real value to a buyer.
Affordable Premium. If the likelihood of an insured event is so high, or the cost of the event so large, that the resulting premium is large relative to the amount of protection offered, it is not likely that anyone will buy insurance, even if on offer. Further, as the accounting profession formally recognizes in financial accounting standards, the premium cannot be so large that there is not a reasonable chance of a significant loss to the insurer. If there is no such chance of loss, the transaction may have the form of insurance, but not the substance. (See the U.S. Financial Accounting Standards Board standard number 113)
Calculable Loss. There are two elements that must be at least estimable, if not formally calculable: the probability of loss, and the attendant cost. Probability of loss is generally an empirical exercise, while cost has more to do with the ability of a reasonable person in possession of a copy of the insurance policy and a proof of loss associated with a claim presented under that policy to make a reasonably definite and objective evaluation of the amount of the loss recoverable as a result of the claim.
Limited risk of catastrophically large losses. The essential risk is often aggregation. If the same event can cause losses to numerous policyholders of the same insurer, the ability of that insurer to issue policies becomes constrained, not by factors surrounding the individual characteristics of a given policyholder, but by the factors surrounding the sum of all policyholders so exposed. Typically, insurers prefer to limit their exposure to a loss from a single event to some small portion of their capital base, on the order of 5 percent. Where the loss can be aggregated, or an individual policy could produce exceptionally large claims, the capital constraint will restrict an insurers appetite for additional policyholders. The classic example is earthquake insurance, where the ability of an underwriter to issue a new policy depends on the number and size of the policies that it has already underwritten. Wind insurance in hurricane zones, particularly along coast lines, is another example of this phenomenon. In extreme cases, the aggregation can affect the entire industry, since the combined capital of insurers and reinsurers can be small compared to the needs of potential policyholders in areas exposed to aggregation risk. In commercial fire insurance it is possible to find single properties whose total exposed value is well in excess of any individual insurer’s capital constraint. Such properties are generally shared among several insurers, or are insured by a single insurer who syndicates the risk into the reinsurance market.

Advice on spending

2008-03-06T13:04:00.001-08:00

"Know the difference between needs and wants."

Several posters also mentioned different versions of this advice, which is key to controlling your spending. When you can't distinguish between real needs and mere wants, you're constantly talking yourself into spending too much.

Poster "ARCHIEtheDRAGON" recalls his mother asking, "What do you need that for?" whenever he bought anything as a kid. Annoying? Maybe. But "now I hear her voice in my head whenever I am spending money. It keeps me from buying a lot of crap that I don't need."

"JennysMom" illustrated it this way: "You need food. You want prime rib. That example is perfect for the want vs. need debate in my head!"

Poster "Clara Bear" said she heard similar advice from her grandmother.

"Whenever I would complain about not having the newest coolest clothes or whatever when I was younger, my grandmother would always say, 'We have everything we need and most of what we want, too.' That would make me realize that even though we weren't the richest family in town, we really did have plenty. I still think about that today when I'm lusting over some ridiculously expensive item at the mall. It makes me remember that I have a place to live, plenty to eat and a great family as well as much of the stuff I want. I (usually) put the item back on the shelf and walk away satisfied with what I already have."

"Think of the true cost."

Anything you want to buy involves a number of costs. The price tag is just the start.

"I see something that would look great on my table," poster "Mamasita99" wrote. "I have to give up the cash for it that won't be able to work for me somewhere else. Then I have to think of all the time and energy I'll waste cleaning this item, keeping it out of my kids' hands, and packing it up and hauling it somewhere else when we move in a year. Most of the time, the true cost of the item is too high for me."

The best financial advice ever

2008-03-06T13:03:00.000-08:00

Prince Charming isn't coming. Live like a college student. Never co-sign a loan. Money experts like David Bach and readers like you share the best nuggets of wisdom they have ever received.

If you're doing well financially, chances are you had help.

Someone, somewhere along the way passed along a nugget of financial wisdom that you took to heart. Maybe you absorbed the messages over time from some role model, such as a parent or grandparent. Or perhaps you just heard the right thing at the right time from a friend, an adviser or even a total stranger.

If you're not doing well financially, maybe you're finally ready to hear some advice that could make all the difference.

With that in mind, I asked experts and readers alike to share the best financial advice they ever received. The results were varied and enlightening.

Advice on saving

"No matter how much or how little you make, always save a little bit."

This is a variation of "Pay yourself first" that Your Money poster "kesslergk" heard from a grandfather. It's a reminder that whatever money comes into your life, you can (and should) be setting aside some of it.

If you don't think you can, read "Too broke to save? Never."

"Save hard for the first 10 years of your married life."

This is the advice Your Money poster "Talk2Me2"received from her mother (although to apply it to more people, I might amend it to, "Save hard for the first 10 years of your adult life" or "Keep living like a broke college student for as long as you can").

"Saving hard means having to make a lot of the right choices," Talk2Me2 wrote. "We researched every purchase, learned how to do lots of things ourselves (car repair, hair cutting, sewing, cooking, home maintenance, etc.) and we could not only save money but we also used these skills to make money. When you are young, doing with less isn't a struggle because you aren't used to the luxuries yet. We also had more time to bargain shop.

Stock investment reports

2008-03-06T12:55:00.000-08:00

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"Big Profits From the Baby—Boomer Bonanza" —In 2006, the first baby boomers are turning 60. In this special report, Tom Gardner names two well-known companies that are positioned to capitalize on the most powerful demographic trend in history.

Stock Advisor

2008-03-06T12:46:00.000-08:00

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Insurance....What is it????

Advice on spending

The best financial advice ever

Advice on saving

Stock investment reports

Grab your FREE bundle of exclusive Stock Advisor investment reports (valued at more than $100) today!

Stock Advisor

What long time subscribers are saying about Motley Fool Stock Advisor…